Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: knit fabric with low or medium stretch from natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: knit fusible interfacing; 4 buttons.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Back - 1 piece on fold
- Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Bottom placket — 1 piece on fold
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Placket – 4 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Placket – 2 pieces
Tip: Knit fabric pieces are stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. When serging, trim seam allowances to 0.6 – 0.8 cm. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle to maintain elasticity.
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch side and shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and serge.
- Fold the bottom placket in half lengthwise, right side out, and stitch to the bottom of the front and back, stretching it slightly. Serge allowances and press upwards.
- Stitch shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and the placket. Press allowances open. Fold pieces right sides together and stitch the outer and lower edges. Clip allowances at curves, trim at corners. Turn pieces right side out and press. Stitch the placket and facings to the main garment. Press allowances towards the main piece. Serge allowances.
- Stitch the sleeve seam. Serge allowance and press towards the back. Along the sleeve cap and the lower edge, stitch with loosened upper thread and gather.
- Stitch the cuff into a loop. Press allowances open. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise and stitch to the sleeve. Serge allowances and press upwards.
- Set sleeves into armholes. Serge allowances and press.
- Work buttonholes and sew buttons on the plackets.
