Pattern

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: non-fraying knit fabric with low stretch from natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: knit fusible interfacing. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance – 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

CUTTER'S MUST

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Back yoke - 1 piece on fold
  • Back center upper part - 1 piece on fold
  • Back center lower part - 1 piece on fold
  • Back side part - 2 pieces
  • Front yoke - 1 piece on fold
  • Front center upper part - 1 piece on fold
  • Front center lower part - 1 piece on fold
  • Front middle part - 2 pieces
  • Front side part - 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
  • Collar stand – 1 piece
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
  • Collar stand – 1 piece

Tip: Knit fabric pieces are stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. When serging, trim seam allowances to 0.8 cm. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle or on a coverstitch machine to maintain elasticity. You can also stitch pieces directly on a 3- or 4-thread overlock machine.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
2. Fold the upper and lower back center parts wrong sides together and stitch. Press seam allowances. Stitch the back princess seams, folding pieces wrong sides together. Press seam allowances. Attach the yoke to the back, folding pieces wrong sides together. Press seam allowances.
3. Fold the upper and lower front center parts wrong sides together and stitch. Press seam allowances. Stitch the front princess seams, folding pieces wrong sides together. Press seam allowances. Attach the yoke to the front, folding pieces wrong sides together. Press seam allowances.
4. Stitch shoulder seams, press seam allowances towards the back and serge.
5. Stitch the collar stand into a loop, press seam allowances open. Fold the collar stand in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Attach the collar stand to the neckline, stretching it slightly, press seam allowances towards the garment, serge, and topstitch along the seam onto the main piece.
6. Attach the sleeve to the main garment, folding pieces wrong sides together. Press seam allowances.
7. Stitch sleeve seams and side seams in one continuous seam, press seam allowances towards the back, serge.
8. Stitch the cuff into a loop, press seam allowances open. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Attach the cuff to the bottom of the sleeve, stretching it slightly, press seam allowances upwards and serge.
9. Serge the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side, and topstitch.

Tip: you can use ready-made ribbed knit collar stand and cuffs of the desired width.