Cropped Jacket with Yoke & Mock Flap Pockets
A waist-length, fitted women's jacket with a collar cut in one with the front, a front yoke with buttoned flaps set into the yoke seam, two-piece sleeves and a one-button front with rounded lower corners. Fully lined.
When To Wear
- As a light outer layer in spring and autumn.
- Over dresses and high-waisted skirts or trousers, where the short length shows the waistline.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by bust darts at the front and shoulder and waist darts at the back.
Length: Cropped at the waist.
Collar: Cut-on collar, joined at the centre back; the facing has its own cut-on collar, and the two are stitched together around the front edges, collar and hem.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with elbow and front seams; shoulder pads.
Front: One button and buttonhole; the front edges curve into rounded corners at the hem. Front edge seam understitched to the facing 0.2 cm from the seam.
Pockets: No pocket openings; interfaced flaps, each with a buttonhole and a button, are stitched into the front yoke seam.
Back: Centre back seam, shoulder and waist darts, finished with a back neckline facing and a back hem facing.
Lining: Full lining of the body and sleeves, sewn to the facings and to the sleeve hems, with a turning opening in the left sleeve elbow seam.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A cut-on collar with a corner clipped at the neckline, flaps inserted into a yoke seam, two-piece sleeves and a bagged full lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Lightweight coating fabrics made from natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (fronts, front yokes, front facings, back neckline and hem facings, flaps)
- Shoulder pads
- 3 buttons
Cutter's Must
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the corresponding pieces.
- Stitch the shoulder and waist darts on the Back pieces, press the dart intakes towards the center. Stitch the center back seam, press the seam allowances open.
- Stitch the bust darts, trim the dart intakes to 1 cm, press towards the center.
- Place the Flap pieces in pairs right sides together and stitch the side and lower edges. Notch the seam allowances, turn the Flap right side out, shape, press. Make a buttonhole.
- Stitch the Front Yoke to the Front, inserting the Flap at the markings. Press the seam allowances towards the Front Yoke.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams, clipping into the corner at the neckline, press the seam allowances open.
- Stitch the center back seam of the cut-on collar, press the seam allowances open. Stitch the collar into the neckline, press the seam allowances open.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the Center Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing, press the seam allowances open. Stitch the Back Hem Facing to the Center Front Facings, press the seam allowances open. Stitch the center back seam of the facing collar, press the seam allowances open. Stitch the facing collar into the facing neckline, clipping the allowance at the corner, press the seam allowances open.
- Place the facings on the jacket right sides together and stitch all around the front edges, collar and lower edge. Understitch the front edge seam allowance to the Center Front Facing 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the facings to the wrong side, shape, press. Tack the collar attachment seam allowances of the jacket and facing together.
- Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve and press open. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch the front seam of the sleeve and press open. Set the sleeves into the armholes matching the notches. Attach the shoulder pads.
- Sew the lining pieces in the same way as the main fabric pieces, leaving an opening in the left sleeve elbow seam. Stitch the lining to the Back Neckline Facing, Back Hem Facing and Center Front Facings. Turn the jacket right side out, shape the seams.
- Mark and press up the jacket hem. Stitch the lining to the jacket hem and the sleeve hems. Close the opening in the lining sleeve.
- Make a buttonhole on the right front and sew a button on the left front. Sew buttons to correspond with the Flap buttonholes.
