Jacket with Gathered Peplum
Introducing a chic women's jacket sewing pattern, distinguished by its fitted bodice and a charming gathered peplum that flares elegantly below the waist.
When To Wear
This jacket is a versatile and stylish choice, perfect for various occasions requiring a polished and sophisticated look:
- Elegant Daytime Events: Ideal for luncheons, garden parties, or upscale casual gatherings.
- Professional & Business Casual: Elevates work attire with a refined silhouette and tailored finish.
- Special Occasions & Cocktails: Pairs beautifully with tailored trousers or skirts for evening events, offering a modern alternative to traditional formal wear.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a tailored bodice shaped with darts, fitted at the waist and flaring out into a soft, gathered peplum.
Neckline & Collar: Features an elegant stand collar, framing the neck with a clean, structured line.
Closure: Edge-to-edge front closure secured with four hooks and loops, backed by a placket underlay on the left front.
Sleeves: Long, tailored two-piece set-in sleeves with shoulder pads for a smooth, structured shoulder.
Back: The back has a center back seam and darts, and repeats the gathered peplum of the front for a harmonious design.
Length: The peplum falls just below the waist to the upper hip, emphasizing the waistline and creating a balanced proportion with trousers or skirts.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires familiarity with techniques such as dart construction, creating gathers, setting a stand collar, and working with precise closures.
Fabric Recommendations
Select suiting materials that offer both structure and a beautiful drape for the peplum:
- Suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- Shoulder pads
- 4 hooks with loops
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Upper Back – 2 pieces
- Lower Back – 1 piece (on fold)
- Upper Front – 2 pieces
- Placket – 1 piece
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Stand Collar – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Placket – 1 piece
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Stand Collar – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the corresponding pieces.
- Stitch the darts on the Upper Back pieces, trim the dart depths to 1 cm, press towards the center and overlock. Stitch the center back seam, press the allowances to the left side and overlock.
- Along the upper edge of the Lower Back, stitch with a loosened upper thread and gather. Stitch the Upper Back and Lower Back together, press the allowances upwards and overlock.
- Trim the dart depths on the Upper Front pieces to 1 cm. Stitch the darts, press the depths towards the center, overlock.
- Along the upper edge of the lower front (peplum) section, stitch with a loosened upper thread and gather. Stitch the upper and lower front parts together, press the allowances upwards, overlock.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams, press the allowances towards the back, overlock.
- Place the Stand Collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the ends and upper edge. Notch the allowances at the corners, clip the curves, turn the Stand Collar right side out, shape, press. Attach the Stand Collar to the neckline.
- Fold the Placket in half lengthwise right side in and stitch the short ends. Turn the Placket right side out, shape, press.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the Back Neckline Facing and Center Front Facings and press them open. Overlock the outer edge. Place the facings on the jacket right sides together and stitch along the front edges, neckline and lower edge, inserting the Placket and the loops between the left Center Front Facing and the left front. Notch the allowances at the corners, clip the curves, turn the facings to the wrong side, shape, press. Tack the Back Neckline Facing to the shoulder seams and the center back seam.
- Stitch the elbow and front seams of the sleeve, press the allowances towards the Upper Sleeve, overlock. Set the sleeves into the armholes matching the notches, easing in the sleeve cap at the top; press the allowances and overlock. Attach the shoulder pads.
- Overlock the hem allowances of the jacket and sleeves, fold to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Sew the hooks onto the right front to correspond with the loops.
