Stand Collar Buckle Asymmetrical Jacket

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: thin coat or suit fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interlining; decorative buckle closure, button. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE PATTERNS INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES; IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem – 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details).

CUTTER'S MUST

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Back – 1 piece on fold
  • Front – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Collar stand – 2 pieces
  • Welt – 2 pieces
• From lining fabric:
  • Front lining – 2 pieces
  • Back lining – 1 piece on fold
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
  • Small pocket bag – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

1. Fold the welt piece in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along the short sides. Trim seam allowances at corners, turn the welt right side out, and press. Topstitch along the short sides and one long side.
2. Reinforce the pocket area with fusible interlining. Stitch the small pocket bag to the welt. Place the welt face down on the right side of the front piece, aligning with the marked line (closer to the center). Stitch the welt. Stitch the large pocket bag to the other marked pocket line. Cut the pocket opening in the middle between the marked lines, making diagonal cuts towards the pocket marking corners. Turn the lining to the wrong side. Straighten and press the seam allowances. Stitch the pocket bag edges, securing the pocket corners. Topstitch the welt to the front piece along the short edges from the right side.
3. Stitch shoulder seams, press allowances open.
4. Stitch side seams from armhole to slit mark, overcast and press allowances open. Along the slit, topstitch at 0.5 cm from the edge to secure.
5. Overcast the buttonhole on the right front facing. Stitch shoulder seams of front facings and back neckline facing, press allowances open. Place the front facing on the front piece, right side down, and stitch the front edges and the front neckline edge up to the center line. Clip the allowance at the mark, trim at the corner, turn the front edges right side out, and press.
6. Fold the collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch along the ends and the outer edge. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked attachment line. Clip allowances, trim at corners. Turn the collar stand right side out, straighten, and press. Stitch the outer collar stand to the back and front neckline. Stitch the inner collar stand to the facing and front facings neckline. Press allowances open and secure close to each other.
7. Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances open. Set sleeves into armholes, matching notches.
8. On the lining fabric pieces, stitch seams and set sleeves. Press up the bottom hem allowances of the lining to the wrong side by 1 cm, then another 1 cm, and topstitch.
9. Stitch the lining to the front facings and facing, press allowances. Overcast the front facing and lining from armhole level to the bottom. Stitch the sleeve hem with the lining. Turn the garment right side out, straighten seams.
10. Overcast and press up the bottom edge of the coat. Stitch the corner of the front edge with the front facing. Topstitch the bottom edge.
11. Stitch on the decorative closure. Sew the inner button to the left front piece according to the buttonhole.