Fabric & Materials
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: denim fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 10 snap fasteners.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: Hem allowance – 2 cm; all other seams – 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Back - 1 piece on fold
- Back yoke – 1 piece on fold
- Front - 2 pieces
- Front yoke – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- Collar — 2 pieces
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Placket – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar — 1 piece
- Collar stand – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Placket – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Fuse interfacing to the relevant pieces.
- Attach the yoke to the back, clipping the back at the corner. Overlock and press seam allowances upwards. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Overlock the upper edge of the pocket, fold the allowance to the wrong side and topstitch. Fold the side and bottom allowances of the pocket to the wrong side and press. Place the pocket on the front and topstitch according to the markings.
- Attach the yoke to the front. Overlock and press seam allowances upwards. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Attach the upper parts of the snap fasteners to the right placket. Place the right placket on the right front, right sides together, and stitch the edge of the opening. Turn the placket to the wrong side, fold the allowance of the inner side and topstitch from the right side. Place the left placket on the left front, right sides together, and stitch the edge of the opening. Turn the placket to the wrong side, fold the allowance of the inner side and topstitch from the right side.
- Place the upper collar and lower collar right sides together, stitch the ends and the outer edge of the collar. Trim seams, turn the collar right side out, shape and press. Topstitch along the ends and outer edge of the collar. Place the collar stand pieces right sides together, insert the finished collar between them, align notches and stitch, simultaneously stitching the ends of the collar stand. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked line of the collar stand attachment seam. Turn the finished collar right side out and press. Attach the upper collar stand with the collar to the neckline, fold the open edge of the lower collar stand and topstitch into the seam of the upper collar stand attachment.
- Make a slit on the sleeve along the marked line. Cut a bias strip from the main fabric, 4 cm wide and a length equal to twice the slit length + 4 cm. Fold the bias strip in half lengthwise and press. Press the outer allowances towards the center. Finish the sleeve slit with the bias strip. Form and secure the pleats on the sleeve. Pleat depths are directed away from the closure.
- Set sleeves into armholes, press and overlock allowances.
- Stitch side seams simultaneously with sleeve seams. Overlock and press allowances towards the back.
- Fold cuff pieces in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the side edges and the step. Start and end the stitching exactly at the marked line of the cuff attachment seam. Clip the allowance at the mark. Turn the piece right side out, press. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, fold the allowance of the inner side of the cuff inwards and topstitch into the seam of the outer cuff attachment. Topstitch along the contour of the cuff.
- Fold the bottom hem of the garment inwards by 1 cm, then another 1 cm, and topstitch.
- Attach snap fasteners to the left front. Attach snap fasteners to the cuffs and collar stand.
