Ruffled Yoke Blouse with Shirred Cuffs

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: Blouse fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; elastic thread; 7 buttons.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: Hem allowance – 2 cm; other seams – 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Back yoke - 1 piece
  • Back - 1 piece on fold
  • Back flounce - 1 piece on fold
  • Front yoke - 2 pieces
  • Front - 2 pieces
  • Front flounce - 2 pieces
  • Placket – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Collar stand – 2 pieces
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Placket — 2 pieces
  • Collar stand – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
2. Stitch bust darts, press allowances upwards.
3. Stitch shoulder seams of yokes, press allowances towards the back and overcast. Stitch shoulder seams of main pieces, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
4. Stitch shoulder seams of flounces, press allowances towards the back and overcast. Overcast the lower edge of the flounce, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Alternatively, the lower edge can be finished with a narrow rolled hem. Before doing so, trim the seam allowance. Along the upper edge of the flounce, stitch with a loosened upper thread and gather.
5. Attach the yoke to the main piece, inserting the flounce between the pieces. Press allowances upwards and overcast.
6. Attach the outer placket to the front, press allowances towards the placket. Fold the placket to the right side along the edge line and stitch the upper corner. Clip allowances at the mark, turn the placket to the right side, straighten, and press. Fold the allowance of the inner placket inwards and topstitch into the attachment seam.
7. Place collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer contour. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked line of the collar stand attachment seam. Attach the upper collar stand to the neckline, fold under the raw edge of the lower collar stand, and topstitch into the attachment seam of the upper collar stand.
8. Stitch side seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
9. Stitch sleeve seam, press allowances towards the back and overcast. Along the lower edge, stitch with a loosened upper thread and gather. Set sleeves into armholes, press allowances and overcast.
10. Stitch cuff piece into a loop, press allowances open. Fold the cuff lengthwise in half, wrong sides together, and press. Stitch along the marked lines using elastic thread. Attach the cuff to the sleeve, stretching it slightly.
11. Fold the bottom hem inwards by 1 cm, then another 1 cm, and topstitch.
12. On the right front, overcast buttonholes; on the left, sew on buttons.