Fabric & Materials
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: dense dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 4 buttons, 1 inner button.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE PATTERNS INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: Hem allowance – 2 cm; other seams – 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to consider paired and symmetrical parts). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Back - 2 pieces
- Front - 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Pocket frame – 4 pieces
- Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
- Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Pocket frame – 4 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch darts on back pieces, press allowances towards the center. Stitch the center back seam, press allowances to the left side and overcast.
- Stitch darts on front pieces, trim allowances to 1 cm, press towards the center and overcast.
- Mark pocket placement on the front. Fold pocket frames in half wrong sides together and press. Mark a guideline on the pocket frame for stitching parallel to the fold. Stitch the large pocket bag to the upper frame. Stitch frames to the front. Cut the front in the middle between the stitching lines of the frames. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the frames through the opening to the wrong side, straighten the edges, adjust the ends of the frames so that the pressed folds of the frames meet flush. Secure the pocket corners from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch the small pocket bag into the seam of the lower frame. Stitch pocket bag edges, overcast.
- Stitch shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Stitch shoulder seams of back neckline facing and front facings, press allowances open. Overcast the outer edge. Place the facing and front facing onto the right side of the garment and stitch the neckline, front edge, and lower corner. Clip allowances, trim corners, turn facings and front facings to the wrong side and press. Stitch the facing to the center back seam and shoulder seams.
- Cut (or use ready-made) bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to armhole length + 4 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise right side out and press. Place the binding onto the armhole edge right side up and stitch. Fold the binding to the wrong side, clip allowances and topstitch along the fold onto the main piece. Press the seam.
- Stitch side seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Overcast the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Make buttonholes on the right front, sew buttons on the left. Make an inner buttonhole on the left front, sew on the inner button.
