Dolman Sleeve Blouse Stand Collar Front Pleat

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: blouse fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 2 buttons.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom edge of the garment – 2 cm, sleeve – 1.5 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Back – 2 pieces
  • Front – 1 piece on fold
  • Collar stand – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Collar stand – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

1. Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
2. Serge the center back edges separately. Stitch the center back seam from the slit mark to the bottom. Press seam allowances open. Along the slit, stitch a reinforcing line at 0.2 cm.
3. Stitch the darts on the front. Press the dart folds upwards.
4. Fold the front in half lengthwise, right side out, and stitch a line to secure the pleat along the line indicated by arrows. Spread the depths of the box pleat to two sides and press.
5. Stitch shoulder seams, press seam allowances towards the back, serge.
6. Cut a bias strip 2.5 cm wide and 10 cm long for the loop. Fold the strip in half lengthwise, right side in, and stitch at 0.3 cm from the fold. Trim seam allowances close to the stitching, turn the strip right side out and straighten the rouleau. Cut into two parts, adjust the length of the loops.
7. Place collar stand pieces right sides together, stitch the top and short sides, inserting the loops. Trim seam allowances at corners, turn the collar stand right side out, straighten and press. Stitch the outer collar stand to the neckline, turn under the raw edge of the inner collar stand and topstitch into the seam.
8. Stitch side seams, press seam allowances towards the back, serge.
9. Serge the bottom edge of the garment and sleeves, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
10. Sew buttons onto the collar stand.