Flared Belted RainCoat with Notched Lapel
Introducing a sophisticated women's raincoat pattern, meticulously crafted with princess seams, a graceful flared silhouette, and a stylish notched lapel, cinched by a distinctive self-fabric belt.
When To Wear
This chic raincoat is designed for versatile wear, making it an excellent choice for:
- Transitional Seasons: Perfect for layering during spring & autumn, offering protection from the elements while maintaining a stylish look.
- City & Commute Wear: Provides a polished and practical outer layer for daily commutes and urban excursions, ensuring comfort and elegance.
- Smart Casual Outings: Elevates everyday ensembles for lunch dates, shopping trips, or any occasion requiring a touch of refined casualness.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: A flattering A-line silhouette, fitted through the bodice and waist, gracefully flaring to the hem for elegant movement.
Neckline & Collar: Features a classic notched lapel collar, framing the face with timeless sophistication.
Closure: Single-breasted front with a button closure, complemented by a wide self-fabric belt for waist definition.
Sleeves: Long, two-piece sleeves finished with adjustable tab-and-button cuffs for a refined touch.
Pockets: Functional welt pockets are integrated into the front panels, providing practicality and sleek design.
Back: Styled with a distinctive back yoke and elegant princess seams that extend into the flared hem, creating a graceful silhouette.
Waist: Defined by a wide, detachable self-fabric belt that ties at the front, offering versatile styling options.
Length: Falls gracefully to just above the knee, offering a modern and versatile length.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Requires precise construction techniques including collar and lapel application, welt pocket creation, lining insertion, and shaping the flared hem.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose medium-weight, structured fabrics with good drape and water-resistant properties for optimal results:
- Raincoat fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- 5 buttons
- Lining fabric
- Shoulder pads
Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: raincoat fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: fusible interfacing; 5 buttons; lining; shoulder pads. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve 2 cm, along the edges of the pocket bags and welt pocket flap — 2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can range from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details).
CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Yoke – 1 piece
- Yoke facing – 1 piece
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Upper collar – 1 piece
- Undercollar – 1 piece
- Welt pocket flap – 2 pieces
- Sleeve tab – 2 pieces
- Belt – 1 piece
- Belt loop — 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back lining – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
- Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
- FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: front facing, back neckline facing, upper collar.
ATTENTION: Front lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the width of the front facings.
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH! Note: Relief and side edges of the garment are overcast from the waist to the hem.
- Fuse interfacing to the front facing, back neckline facing, upper collar, armhole edge on the front and back. Fuse the pocket placement area on the side front. Along the lapel fold line on the front, apply a 1 cm wide grainline stay (from fusible interfacing).
- Mark the pocket placement. Press the welt pocket flap in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Stitch the small pocket bag to the inner side of the welt pocket flap. Stitch the welt pocket flap to the front along the lower pocket marking line. Stitch the large pocket bag to the front along the upper pocket marking line. The ends of the stitching should finish at the short marking lines. Cut the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the welt pocket flap and large pocket bag to the wrong side through the opening. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch the pocket bag edges.
- Stitch the front relief seams, press allowances towards the center.
- Stitch and press open the center back seam.
- Face the lower edge of the yoke with the yoke facing, clip seams. Fold the facing to the wrong side, press and topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge. Place the yoke on the back and topstitch along the yoke with a decorative – securing stitch.
- Stitch the back relief seams, press allowances towards the center.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams.
- Stitch the back neckline facing to the front facings, press allowances open.
- Fold collars right sides together and stitch the outer edge and collar points. Clip allowances at the notch, turn the collar right side out and press.
- Overcast and press up the hem of the garment. Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge and hem strictly along the marked line. Stitching is done upwards to the notch indicating the end of collar insertion. Trim the seams of the upper and lower front corners. Topstitch the front facing seam allowance: in the button placket area – to the front facing, in the lapel area – to the front. The stitching is placed 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the fronts right side out, straighten the seams. Topstitch the hem of the garment.
- Stitch the undercollar into the garment neckline, and the upper collar into the neckline edge of the back facing and front facing. Press seams open. Secure the stitching seams of the upper and undercollars together. Turn the garment right side out, press.
- Overcast one long side of the belt loop piece. Press allowances onto the belt loop and topstitch (overcast allowance on top). Cut into 10 pieces.
- Topstitch belt loops onto sleeve pieces. Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve.
- Set sleeves into armholes according to notches. Insert shoulder pads.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch seams and set sleeves. Double fold the lining hem by 1 cm and topstitch.
- Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and back neckline facing. Stitch the lining to the sleeve hem.
- Topstitch along the front edge and collar.
- Fold the tab in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch, leaving an opening. Turn the tab right side out through the opening and sew it closed. Topstitch along the contour 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Fold the belt in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch, leaving an opening. Turn the belt right side out through the opening and sew it closed. Topstitch along the contour 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Sew belt loops at the level of the front and back relief seams.
- On the right front and tabs, overcast buttonholes. Sew on buttons accordingly.
