Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: suiting fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; lining fabric; two buttons. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance – 2.5 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Under collar - 1 piece
- Upper collar – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neck facing – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neck facing – 1 piece
Note: the lining pieces for the front and back are cut using the main fabric patterns, subtracting the width of the front facing and the back neck facing.
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces. On the front pieces, along the lapel roll line, apply a 1 cm wide grainline stay (from fusible interfacing).
- Stitch the center back seam, press allowances open. Stitch the back princess seams. Press allowances towards the center.
- Stitch the front princess seams. Press allowances towards the center.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams. Press allowances open.
- Place the upper collar on the under collar, right sides together, and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Start and end the stitching precisely at the marked collar attachment line. Trim seams at corners, clip at the notch. Turn the collar right side out, shape, and press.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neck facing and front facings.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front piece, right side down, pin, and stitch along the front edge. Stitch upwards to the notch that indicates the end of the collar attachment.
- Attach the under collar to the vest neckline, and the upper collar to the neckline of the back neck facing and front facings. Press open the collar attachment seam allowances and secure close to the seams.
- Press the bottom edge of the vest to the wrong side.
- Stitch the lining seams, leaving an opening in the left side seam. Attach the lining to the front facings and back neck facing. Stitch the armhole in two steps: first the front armhole, then the back armhole. Clip allowances, press the seam. Attach the lining to the bottom of the vest.
- Turn the vest right side out through the technical opening. Sew the opening closed.
- Make buttonholes on the right front. Sew buttons on the left front.
