Wide Lapel Double-Breasted Flared Coat Dress
Introducing a sophisticated women's coat dress pattern featuring a dramatic wide lapel, double-breasted closure, and a gracefully flared skirt.
When To Wear
This versatile coat dress is perfect for creating a polished and elegant look, suitable for:
- Professional Settings: a chic alternative to traditional office wear, ideal for business meetings or smart work environments.
- Smart Casual & Daytime Events: Elevate your everyday style or make a statement at brunches, lunches, or cultural outings.
- Special Occasions: Elegant enough for semi-formal gatherings, receptions, or stylish evening affairs.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a tailored, fitted bodice with a defined waistline, flowing into a chic, flared skirt.
Neckline & Collar: Features a striking wide collar cut in one with the front (joined by a center back collar seam), forming broad lapels and a sophisticated V-neckline.
Closure: Double-breasted front with a two-button closure, providing a secure and stylish overlap.
Sleeves: Classic long, two-piece set-in sleeves designed for a structured and comfortable fit.
Back: Tailored back with a center back seam and princess seams in the bodice, a horizontal waist seam, and a softly flared skirt with a center back seam.
Length: Sits gracefully above the knee, offering a modern and versatile silhouette.
Waist: a horizontal waist seam at front and back defines the waist and enhances the flattering fit.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. This pattern involves precise tailoring, including collar and lapel construction, lining insertion, and multi-panel assembly.
Fabric Recommendations
To achieve the structured yet elegant drape of this coat dress, select fabrics with some body and a smooth finish:
- Thin coat fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing
- 2 buttons
- Shoulder pads
Cutter's Must
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Lower Back – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Lower Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Lower Back – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Lower Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Center Front – 2 pieces
Attention! Lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the width of the front facing and back neckline facing.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facings, Back Neckline Facing and Center Front pieces.
- Stitch the center back seams of the Center Back and Lower Back pieces, press allowances open. Stitch the back princess seams (Center Back to Side Back). Press allowances open. Stitch the upper back to the Lower Back. Press allowances open.
- Stitch the front princess seams (Center Front to Side Front). Press allowances open. Stitch the upper front to the Lower Front. Press allowances open.
- Stitch shoulder and side seams, press allowances open.
- Stitch the center back seam of the collar cut in one with the Center Front. Set the collar into the back neckline, clipping the allowance at the corner.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the Center Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing, press allowances open. Stitch the center back seam of the facing collar. Set it into the neckline of the Back Neckline Facing, clipping the allowance at the corner. Place the facing on the garment right sides together, pin, and stitch along the front edges, lapels, collar and lower edge of the facing, stitching from the front side. Understitch the front edge seam allowance to the Center Front Facing 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the facing to the wrong side, straighten, and press.
- Sew in the shoulder pads.
- Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve, press allowances open. Press the lower sleeve allowance to the wrong side. Stitch the front sleeve seam, press allowances towards the Lower Sleeve. Set sleeves into armholes according to notches, press allowances.
- Press the bottom hem allowance to the wrong side.
- Stitch the seams on the lining, leaving an opening in the left elbow seam of the sleeve. Stitch the lining to the Back Neckline Facing and Center Front Facings. Attach the lining to the bottom of the garment and sleeve hems. Turn the garment right side out through the technological opening. Stitch the opening closed.
- On the right front, make buttonholes; on the left front, sew on buttons.
