Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: soft knit fabric with medium stretch from natural or blended fibers. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEN THE PATTERNS INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THEN THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1.0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED. WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Inner front – 1 piece on fold
- Outer front – 2 pieces
- Front placket – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Bottom band – 1 piece on fold
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
Tip: Knit fabric pieces are stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. When serging, trim seam allowances to 0.8 cm. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle or on a coverstitch machine to maintain elasticity. You can also stitch pieces directly on a 3- or 4-thread overlock machine.
Sewing Instructions
- Serge the upper allowance of the inner front, fold it inwards, and topstitch with two parallel stitches to prevent stretching.
- Fold the front placket in half lengthwise, right side out, and attach it to the outer front. Press the allowance towards the main part and serge.
- Overlap the right front piece onto the left and secure the plackets at the bottom edge. Overlap the outer front piece onto the inner front piece and secure at the armhole edges, side seams, and bottom edge.
- Serge the outer edge of the back neckline facing. Place the neckline facing onto the back and stitch the neckline edge exactly up to the marked shoulder seam line. Clip the allowances, turn the facing to the wrong side, and press.
- Stitch the shoulder edges, inserting the front between the back and the facing, press the allowances towards the back and serge.
- Stitch the side edges, press the allowances towards the back and serge.
- Stitch the bottom band piece into a loop, press the allowance open. Fold it in half lengthwise, right side out, and attach it to the bottom of the garment. Press the allowance upwards and serge.
- Stitch the sleeve seam, press the allowances towards the back and serge. Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching notches, press the allowances and serge.
- Stitch the cuff into a loop, press the allowance open. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise, right side out, and attach it to the sleeve. Serge the allowance and press it towards the sleeve.
