Peter Pan Collar Coat
A charming women's coat pattern featuring a classic Peter Pan collar, a gently flared a-line silhouette, and stylish cuffed three-quarter sleeves.
When To Wear
This coat is designed for versatile wear, making it an ideal choice for:
- Everyday Elegance: Perfect for adding a sophisticated touch to daily outfits.
- Transitional Weather: An ideal outer layer for spring and autumn.
- Smart Casual & Office Wear: Elevates a smart casual look or provides a chic layer for professional settings.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a-line, gently flared from the bust, falling above the knee.
Neckline & Collar: Classic flat Peter Pan collar with a rounded edge, sitting close to the neck.
Closure: Single-breasted front with a faced edge, fastened with buttons and buttonholes.
Sleeves: Three-quarter length set-in sleeves finished with cuffs that overlap at the front corner, each accented with a button.
Pockets: Functional vertical single-welt pockets positioned at the hip.
Back: Clean and unadorned, cut in one piece on the fold, maintaining the smooth a-line flow.
Hem: Straight hem, hitting above the knee.
Lining: Fully lined body and sleeves; shoulder pads for a neat shoulder line.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Involves precise collar setting, welt pocket construction, and working with lining and interfacing.
Fabric Recommendations
Opt for lightweight coat fabrics that drape well and hold shape:
- Thin coat fabrics made from natural fibers
- Thin coat fabrics made from blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- Lining fabric
- Shoulder pads
- 6 buttons
Cutter's Must
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Front – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Off-Set Welt – 2 pieces
- Underlay Piece – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 4 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Big Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- Smaller Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Collar – 1 piece
- Off-Set Welt – 2 pieces
- Underlay Piece – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
Attention: the Front and Back lining pieces are cut minus the Center Front Facing and the Back Neckline Facing respectively.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse the pieces with fusible interfacing.
- Press the Off-Set Welt in half lengthwise, right side out. Fuse the pocket placement area with fusible interfacing. Mark the finished welt width on the welt. Stitch the Smaller Pocket Bag to the inner side of the welt. Place the welt right side down on the right side of the Front along the marking line closer to the center, and stitch. Stitch the Underlay Piece to the Big Pocket Bag, turning under its long edge. Stitch the Big Pocket Bag along the other pocket marking line. Cut the pocket opening in the middle between the marking lines, making diagonal cuts into the corners. Turn the pocket pieces to the wrong side, straighten the seam allowances and press. Stitch the pocket bag edges together, securing the pocket corners.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams, press allowances open. Overlock the side seam allowances from the hem up to the waist.
- Place the Collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Trim allowances at the corners, clip the curves, turn the collar right side out and press. Stitch the collar into the neckline.
- Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances open. Set the sleeves into the armholes, easing the upper part of the sleeve cap and matching notches. Attach the shoulder pads.
- Place the Cuff pieces right sides together and stitch along the lower and side edges. Trim allowances at the corners, clip the curves, turn the cuff right side out and press. Stitch the cuff to the lower edge of the sleeve, overlapping the front corner onto the back one.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the Back Neckline Facing and the Center Front Facings, press allowances open.
- Sew the lining pieces in the same way as the main fabric pieces. Turn under the lining hem allowance twice by 1 cm and stitch. Stitch the lining to the Center Front Facings and the Back Neckline Facing. Press the allowances towards the facing and overlock.
- Overlock the hem allowance and press it to the wrong side. Place the Center Front Facing on the right side of the Front, right sides together, pin and stitch along the front edge and the back neckline. Stitch the lower edges of the facings to the Front exactly along the marked hemline. Trim the seam allowances at the lower front corners. Turn the coat right side out and straighten the seams. Topstitch 0.7 cm from the edge of the front and the collar.
- Stitch the lining to the lower edge of the sleeves. Turn the coat right side out.
- Make buttonholes on the right front and sew buttons on the left front. Sew the buttons on the cuffs.
