Button Front Keyhole Puff Sleeve Dress

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: thin dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; concealed zipper; 8 buttons. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: Hem allowance – 1.5 cm. Other seams – 1.0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

CUTTER'S MUST

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Back - 2 pieces
  • Front - 2 pieces
  • Front Yoke - 4 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
  • Back Neck Facing – 2 pieces
  • Front Facing – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Front Yoke - 2 pieces
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
  • Back Neck Facing – 2 pieces
  • Front Facing – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
2. Stitch darts on back and front pieces. Press dart allowances towards the center of the pieces.
3. Serge the center back edges separately. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the hem, press seam allowances open. Insert the concealed zipper.
4. Serge the outer edges of the front facings. Left front. Place the front facing on the front, right sides together, and stitch the neckline edge. Clip allowances at curves, turn pieces right side out, smooth, and press. Serge the front edge. Right front. Place the front facing on the front, right sides together, and stitch the neckline and front edge. Clip allowances at curves, trim at corners, turn pieces right side out, smooth, and press. Overlap the right front over the left, aligning center lines, and topstitch along the marked line.
5. Cut a bias strip 2.5 cm wide and 10 cm long for the loop. Fold the strip in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch 0.3 cm from the fold. Trim allowances close to the stitching, turn the strip right side out and shape the loop. Adjust loop length.
6. Along the upper edge of the front, stitch with a loosened top thread and gather. Place yoke pieces right sides together, insert the front between the pieces, and stitch the lower edge, center edge, and neckline edge, inserting the loop on the right side. Clip allowances at curves, trim at corners, turn pieces right side out, smooth, and press.
7. Serge the outer edge of the back neck facing. Place the neck facing on the back and stitch the neckline edge exactly to the marked shoulder seam line. Clip allowances, turn the facing to the wrong side, smooth, and press.
8. Stitch shoulder seams, inserting the front between the back and the facing, press allowances towards the back and serge. Secure the center edge of the facing to the zipper tape.
9. Stitch side seams, press allowances towards the back and serge.
10. Stitch sleeve seams, press allowances and serge. Create and secure pleats on the sleeve. Stitch the cuff into a loop, press allowances open. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise, right sides together, and press. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, fold the allowance of the inner side inwards and topstitch into the attachment seam.
11. Set sleeves into armholes, press allowances and serge.
12. Serge the hem allowance, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
13. Sew buttons onto the front.