Mandarin Collar Dress with Side Slits

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: fusible interfacing; concealed zipper, 5 buttons.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the garment and sleeve – 3.0 cm. Allowance along the back and front slit – 3.0 cm. Allowance along the bottom edge of the upper front part – 2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Center back – 2 pieces
  • Side back – 2 pieces
  • Front – 1 piece
  • Upper front – 1 piece
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Collar stand – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Collar stand – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
2. Stitch the back princess seams, press allowances towards the center, serge.
3. Serge the center back edges separately. Stitch the center back seam from the neckline to the first mark and from the second mark to the bottom, press allowances open. Insert the concealed zipper.
4. Stitch the darts on the front pieces, press waist dart depths towards the center of the pieces, bust darts upwards.
5. Cut a bias strip 2.5 cm wide and 30 cm long for the rouleau loops. Fold the strip in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch 0.3 cm from the fold. Trim allowances close to the stitching, turn the strip right side out and straighten the rouleau. Cut into three parts, adjust loop length. Stitch the loops onto the upper edge of the front.
6. Cut (if not ready-made) a bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the upper front edge length + 4 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the binding on the upper front edge, right sides together, and stitch. Fold the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold onto the main piece. Press the seam. Serge the bottom edge of the upper front. Place the front onto the upper front, aligning the seam lines, and topstitch from the side edge to the mark.
7. Stitch the shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and serge.
8. Fold the collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch the outer edge. Clip allowances, turn the collar stand right side out, straighten, press. Stitch the outer collar stand to the neckline, press allowances towards the collar stand. Fold the allowance of the inner collar stand inwards and topstitch into the attachment seam.
9. Stitch the darts on the sleeve cap, press depths towards the center. Set sleeves into armholes, clipping allowances at corners, press allowances and serge.
10. Serge the side edges separately. Stitch the side seams simultaneously with the sleeve seam, press allowances open. Serge the bottom edge of the garment, stitch the bottom corners of the slits, turn right side out, straighten, press. Hem the sides of the slits and the bottom edge with blind stitches.
11. Serge the bottom edge of the sleeve, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
12. Sew buttons onto the upper front according to the loops and false buttons.