Fabric & Materials
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: dense fabrics made of natural or blended fibers (e.g., denim), low-stretch knitwear for trim in a matching or contrasting color. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 1 zipper 10 cm long; 1 separating zipper; 3 buttons; decorative cord; 2 eyelets; 2 cord ends.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH! ATTENTION! Markings on the patterns are made on the right side!
- From main fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Side panel – 2 pieces
- Right front part – 1 piece
- Central front part – 2 pieces
- Left front part – 1 piece
- Inner front part – 1 piece
- Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Right facing – 1 piece
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Zipper facing – 1 piece
- Pocket – 1 piece
- Flap – 1 piece
- From knitwear:
- Placket – 1 piece on fold
- Left hood part – 2 pieces
- Right hood part – 2 pieces
- Flap – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Central front part – 1 piece
- Right facing – 1 piece
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Zipper facing – 1 piece
- Flap – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch the back princess seams, press allowances towards the center, serge. Topstitch along the seam. Stitch the center back seam, press allowances to the left side, serge. Topstitch along the seam.
- Stitch the bust dart on the right front, press the dart depth upwards. Stitch the princess seam of the left front part, press allowances towards the center, serge. Topstitch along the seam.
- Mark the zipper placement on the zipper facing. Cut an opening along the marking, make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the ends of the intended zipper. Fold allowances to the wrong side, place the zipper under the opening so that the teeth are visible and topstitch around the perimeter 0.2 cm from the edge. Fold the edges of the zipper facing to the wrong side and topstitch along the marking to the left front.
- Attach the left and right front pieces to the side panels, press allowances towards the center and serge. Topstitch along the seam. Stitch the shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back, serge.
- Fuse interfacing to the eyelet area on the outer hood. Stitch the hood pieces in pairs, press allowances open. Punch eyelets on the outer hood. Fold the outer and inner hoods right sides together and stitch the outer edge. Clip allowances, turn the hood right side out, shape, press. Topstitch the hood along the marked line, forming a casing. Attach the hood to the neckline.
- Attach the placket to the bottom edge of the garment. Press the allowance of the inner placket edge to the wrong side.
- Left front. Serge the inner edge of the inner central front part (hereinafter – left facing). Fold the left facing with the central part right sides together, insert the left part of the zipper between the pieces, wrap the zipper with the lower part of the placket and stitch in one seam. Turn the placket right side out, shape. Right front. Serge the inner edge of the right facing. Fold the inner front part with the right front part right sides together, insert the right part of the zipper between the pieces, wrap the zipper with the lower part of the placket and stitch in one seam. Turn the placket right side out, shape. Attach the right facing to the inner front part, press allowances towards the facing. Fold the inner front part in half lengthwise right side in and stitch the bottom edge. Turn the inner part right side out, shape, press. Topstitch the inner edge of the placket into the seam of attaching the outer placket part.
- Serge the outer edge of the back neckline facing. Stitch the shoulder seams of the facings and the back neckline facing, press allowances open. Fold the facings with the garment right sides together (hood is placed between the pieces) and stitch the neckline edge. Clip allowances, turn the pieces right side out, shape, press. Topstitch along the neckline for decorative and securing purposes.
- Fuse interfacing to the allowance of the upper pocket edge, press 1 cm to the wrong side. Fold the allowance of the upper edge to the right side and stitch the side edges. Turn right side out, shape corners. Press side and bottom allowances to the wrong side. Topstitch the upper edge allowance 2.0 cm. Topstitch the pocket onto the left upper sleeve part according to the marking.
- Fold the flap pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer contour. Trim allowances at corners, turn the flap right side out, shape, press. Topstitch around the perimeter of the flap. Serge the upper edge. Serge the buttonhole. Attach the flap to the left upper sleeve part (bottom edge facing the sleeve cap), fold down and topstitch.
- Serge the elbow edges of the sleeve separately. Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve from the cap to the mark, clip allowances at the mark. On the section from the cap to the mark, press allowances and topstitch along the seam. On the section from the mark to the bottom, press allowances open and topstitch along the edges 0.1 cm. Stitch and press open the front sleeve seam. Set sleeves into armholes according to notches.
- Fold the cuff pieces in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch the short sides. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked cuff attachment seam line. Turn the cuff right side out, shape and press. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the bottom of the sleeve, press allowances towards the cuff. Press the allowance of the inner side to the wrong side and topstitch into the attachment seam.
- Serge buttonholes and sew buttons on the cuffs. Sew a button on the pocket. Thread the cord through the hood, secure cord ends.
