Long Sleeve Cowl Neck Collared Blouse

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: well-draping blouse fabrics made from natural or blended fibers with added elastane. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 4 buttons.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance – 2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

• From main fabric:
  • Back - 1 piece on fold
  • Front – 1 piece on fold
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Collar – 2 pieces
  • Collar Stand – 2 pieces
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
  • Collar – 1 piece
  • Collar Stand – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
2. Place the upper collar and undercollar right sides together. Stitch the ends and the outer edge of the collar. Trim seams. Turn the collar right side out, shape, and press.
3. Place the collar stand pieces right sides together, insert the prepared collar between them, align notches, and stitch, simultaneously stitching the ends of the collar stand. Start and end the stitching precisely at the marked line of the collar stand attachment to the neckline. Turn the prepared collar stand right side out and press.
4. Stitch shoulder and side seams. Overlock allowances and press towards the back.
5. Clip the allowance at the front neckline mark. Cut a bias binding strip (if not pre-made) 4 cm wide and a length equal to the section between the marks + 4 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the binding along the neckline edge, right sides together, and stitch. Clip allowances. Fold the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold onto the main piece. Press the seam.
6. Stitch the upper collar stand to the garment neckline. Fold the allowance of the lower collar stand inwards and topstitch into the seam of the upper collar stand attachment.
7. Make a slit on the sleeve along the marked line. Cut a bias binding strip from the main fabric 4 cm wide and a length equal to twice the slit length + 4 cm. Fold the binding in half lengthwise and press. Press the outer allowances towards the center. Finish the sleeve slit with bias binding. Create and secure pleats on the sleeve. The pleat depths should be directed away from the closure.
8. Stitch the sleeve seam. Overlock allowance and press towards the back. Set sleeves into armholes. Overlock allowance and press.
9. Fold the cuff pieces in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the side edges. Start and end the stitching precisely at the marked line of the cuff attachment seam. Turn the piece right side out, press. Stitch the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, fold the allowance of the inner side of the cuff inwards and topstitch into the seam of the outer cuff attachment.
10. Overlock the bottom edge of the garment. Press allowances to the wrong side and topstitch.
11. Make buttonholes on the cuffs. Sew buttons onto the cuffs.