Fitted Blouse Tailcoat Hem Long Sleeve

Name: Fitted Blouse Tailcoat Hem Long Sleeve
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 2527
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #2527

A fitted women's shirt-blouse with princess seams, side fronts gathered on elastic thread along the side seams, and a pointed hem: the front edges fall to two points and the back ends in two tails. Shirt collar on a stand, button front and cufflink cuffs. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: blouse fabrics of natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Fitted Blouse Tailcoat Hem Long Sleeve

When To Wear

Office wear with straight trousers or a narrow skirt, worn over the waistband to show the pointed hem.
Evenings with cufflinks at the cuffs.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted through princess seams on the front and back, with back darts.

Length: Below the hip at the points of the hem.

Collar: Pointed shirt collar on a two-piece stand, fastened with one button on the stand.

Front: Centre-front button closure with separate interfaced facings; the front edges are cut away to points at the hem.

Waist: The side fronts are gathered along the side seam from the armhole to a mark, and the side seams are shirred with elastic thread to a set length, giving gathering at the sides.

Sleeves: Long set-in sleeves with a slit finished with a 4 cm bias binding of the main fabric and cuffs with buttonholes, closed with cufflinks or a pair of buttons.

Back: Centre back cut on the fold with side back panels; the hem forms two tails.

Finishing: Interfaced facings, collar, stand and cuffs; seams overlocked; hem turned up and topstitched.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Collar on a stand, a bound sleeve slit, cuffs, shirring with elastic thread and a shaped hem.

Fabric Recommendations

Blouse fabrics of natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Fusible interfacing
7 buttons
2 cufflinks (or a pair of identical buttons per cuff)
Elastic thread

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: Hem allowance - 1.5 cm, other seams - 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

From main fabric:

Center back – 1 piece on fold
Side back – 2 pieces
Center front – 2 pieces
Side front – 2 pieces
Sleeve – 2 pieces
Collar – 2 pieces
Collar stand – 2 pieces
Cuff – 2 pieces
Front facing – 2 pieces
Back neckline facing – 1 piece

From fusible interfacing:

Front facing – 2 pieces
Collar – 1 piece
Collar stand – 1 piece
Cuff – 2 pieces
Back neckline facing – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

Interface pieces with fusible interfacing.
Stitch darts on the back. Press seam allowances towards the center.
Stitch the back princess seam. Overlock seam allowance and press towards the center.
Stitch the front princess seam. Overlock seam allowance and press towards the front. Along the side front, along the side seam from the armhole to the mark, stitch with a loosened thread and gather slightly. Stitch side seams. Along the side seam, stitch with elastic thread, adjust the length of the side seam using the pattern and secure the ends of the elastic. Overlock seam allowances and press towards the back.
Stitch shoulder seams, press seam allowances towards the back and overlock.
Place the upper collar and undercollar right sides together. Stitch the ends and outer edge of the collar. Trim seams. Turn the collar right side out, shape and press. Place collar stand pieces right sides together, insert the finished collar between them, align notches and stitch, simultaneously stitching the ends of the collar stand. Turn the finished collar stand right side out and press.
Stitch shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facings. Press seam allowances open. Overlock outer edges.
Place the front facing and back neckline facing onto the right side of the main garment, secure at the seams and stitch, inserting the collar. Turn the front facing and back neckline facing to the wrong side and press the front edges. Stitch securing stitches along the edge of the front opening.
Make a slit on the sleeve along the marked line. Cut a bias strip from the main fabric 4 cm wide and a length equal to twice the slit length + 4 cm. Fold the bias strip in half lengthwise and press. Press outer seam allowances towards the center. Finish the sleeve slit with the bias strip. Stitch the sleeve seam. Overlock seam allowances and press towards the back of the sleeve. Set sleeves into armholes, press seam allowances and overlock.
Fold the cuff in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the short sides. Trim seam allowances at corners and turn right side out. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve. Fold the seam allowance of the inner side inwards and topstitch into the attachment seam.
Overlock the bottom edge of the garment, fold inwards and topstitch.
Make a buttonhole on the right collar stand, sew a button on the left. Make buttonholes and sew buttons on the front. Make buttonholes on the cuffs. Fold the cuffs with inner sides together, align buttonholes and secure with cufflinks. Tip: Instead of a cufflink, you can use a pair of identical buttons.