Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: a zipper; two buttons. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: All seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom edge of the garment – 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- Upper back part – 2 pieces
- Lower back part – 2 pieces
- Back waistband – 1 piece
- Upper front part - 2 pieces
- Right front waistband – 1 piece
- Left front waistband - 1 piece
- Lower front part – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- Underlap – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Collar stand – 1 piece
- Right front waistband – 1 piece
- Left front waistband - 1 piece
- Back waistband – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Interface pieces with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch darts on the upper and lower back parts. Press seam allowances towards the center. Stitch the center edges of the upper and lower back parts. Serge seam allowances and press to the left side.
- On the upper front part, create and secure the pleat. Stitch the dart on the lower front part. Press seam allowance towards the center.
- Stitch shoulder seams. Serge seam allowances and press towards the back. Cut (if not ready-made) a bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the armhole length of the back and front + 4cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the binding with the armhole edge, right sides together, and stitch. Clip seam allowances. Turn the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam. Ready-made binding can also be used.
- Fold collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch the corners and upper edge. Trim seam allowances, clip curves. Turn the collar stand right side out and press.
- Stitch shoulder seams of front facings and back neckline facing. Press seam allowance open. Serge the outer edge. Place the front facing and neckline facing onto the main garment and stitch the front edge and neckline, inserting the collar stand. Trim seam allowances, turn the facings to the wrong side and press. Secure the front facings to the shoulder seams with hand stitches.
- Stitch side seams of waistbands. Serge seam allowances and press towards the back. Serge the short center edges of the front waistbands.
- Trim the integrated facing from the left lower front part. Serge the center edges of the lower center front part separately. Stitch the center edge of the lower parts, starting the seam at the edge of the integrated facing. Press the integrated zipper facing to the wrong side. Align the zipper with the center edge of the left part and stitch. Stitch the free zipper tape to the integrated facing of the right part. Topstitch along the marked line on the right part. Fold the underlap in half lengthwise, wrong side in, and serge the long and short bottom edges. Stitch the underlap to the zipper attachment seam of the left part. Place a bar tack at the end of the zipper on the right side of the skirt. On the wrong side, connect the lower ends of the integrated facing and the underlap.
- Stitch side seams of lower parts. Serge seam allowances and press towards the back.
- Fold the waistband and upper part of the dress right sides together. On the right waistband, create an extension by inserting the front and front facing between the outer and inner sides of the waistband. Stitch the waistband. On the left side, finish without an extension. Serge seam allowance and press towards the waistband. Topstitch the seam allowance to the waistband 0.5 cm from the upper edge of the waistband.
- Stitch side seams of lower parts. Serge seam allowances and press towards the back.
- Stitch the lower part of the dress to the waistband, inserting the lower part into the waistband similarly to the upper part. Serge seam allowance and press towards the waistband.
- Serge buttonholes and sew on buttons.
- Serge the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
