Square Neck Puff Sleeve Peplum Blouse

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: blouse or dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 1 cm wide elastic tape; 5 buttons.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for the garment bottom and sleeve bottom – 1.5 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details).

• From main fabric:
  • Back - 1 piece on fold
  • Front - 2 pieces
  • Placket – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve - 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Placket – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

1. Interface the plackets with fusible interfacing. Also interface the seam allowance of the back and front neckline.
2. Stitch the back pleat from the top to the mark. Spread the box pleat and press. Make a transverse bar tack at the mark level, securing the pleat depth. Stitch the front pleat from the top to the mark. Spread the box pleat and press. Make a transverse bar tack at the mark level, securing the pleat depth.
3. Stitch the side and shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and serge.
4. Cut (if not ready-made) a bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the neckline length between the placket marks. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the binding with the neckline edge, right side facing, and stitch. Clip allowances at the marks. Fold the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold onto the main piece. Press the seam.
5. Cut a strip at a 45-degree angle, about 30 cm long and 2.5 cm wide, for the button loops. Fold the strip in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch 0.3 cm from the fold. Trim allowances close to the stitching, turn the strip right side out and straighten the rouleau. Cut into 5 pieces. Adjust the length of the loops. Topstitch the loops onto the right front along the edge of the front opening (folds pointing away from the edge).
6. Press the inner edge of the placket to the wrong side. Place the placket with the front, right sides together, and stitch the edge of the front opening and the upper corner. Turn the placket to the wrong side, straighten, and press. Topstitch the inner edge of the placket onto the front.
7. Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances and serge. Stitch along the sleeve cap with a loosened upper thread and gather. Set the sleeves into the armholes, press allowances and serge.
8. Serge the hem allowance of the sleeve bottom, press to the wrong side and topstitch, forming a casing. Thread elastic tape through the casing, adjust the length and secure the ends.
9. Serge the hem allowance of the garment bottom, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
10. Sew buttons onto the left front.