Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: coat fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU ALSO NEED: lining; fusible interfacing; 1 button. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom edge of the garment and sleeve – 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details).
CUTTER'S MUST
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Back — 1 piece with fold
- Center front — 2 pieces
- Side front — 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing — 1 piece
- Sleeve — 2 pieces
- Front facing — 2 pieces
- Pocket facing — 2 pieces
- Belt — 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Back lining — 2 pieces
- Front lining — 2 pieces
- Pocket bag — 4 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front facing — 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing — 1 piece
- Pocket facing — 2 pieces
Attention! Lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric patterns, excluding the front facing and back neckline facing.
Sewing Instructions
- Reinforce pieces with fusible interfacing. Reinforce the one-piece pocket underlay.
- Stitch the pocket bag to the one-piece pocket underlay on the side front. Press the allowance downwards. Stitch the pocket facing to the center front, clipping the allowance at the corner. Press the facing to the wrong side. Stitch the pocket bag to the pocket facing of the front. Press the allowance downwards. Topstitch along the pocket opening.
- Stitch the side front to the front, clipping the allowances at the corner of the center front and pocket. Press the allowance towards the center front. Stitch the pocket bag along the middle and bottom edges. Topstitch along the contoured edge 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch shoulder seams. Press allowances open. Stitch sleeves. Press allowances towards the sleeve. Topstitch along the seam 0.5 cm. Stitch side seams simultaneously with sleeve seams; the pocket lining should be caught in the side seam. Press allowances towards the back.
- Stitch shoulder edges of facings and neckline facing. Press allowances open.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, and stitch along the front edge and back neckline. Clip allowances, turn the front facing to the wrong side and press.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch seams, leaving an opening in the left side seam.
- Stitch the lining to the front facings and neckline facing. Stitch the bottom edge of the lining to the bottom edge. Stitch the lining to the sleeve hem. Turn right side out through the opening. Sew the opening closed.
- Fold the belt piece in half lengthwise, stitch the short and long sides, leaving an opening for turning. Trim allowances at corners, turn right side out and press.
- Machine-embroider a buttonhole on the right front. Sew on the button.
