Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: dense knit fabric with low stretch, made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: knit fusible interfacing, invisible zipper.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance – 2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Back - 2 pieces
- Upper front part - 1 piece on fold
- Lower front part - 1 piece on fold
- Gusset – 2 pieces
- Front neckline facing – 1 piece
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front neckline facing – 1 piece
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
Tip: Knit fabric pieces are stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. When serging, trim allowances to 0.6 – 0.8 cm. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle to maintain elasticity.
Sewing Instructions
- Serge the center back edges separately. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the bottom. Press seam open. Insert the invisible zipper.
- Lay pleats on the upper front part, secure pleats along the lower edge. Attach the gusset to the upper front part. Serge and press allowances towards the gusset.
- Stitch side seams. Serge and press allowances towards the back.
- Stitch the horizontal contoured edge of the front, simultaneously attaching the gusset, clipping the allowance at the back corner. Serge and press allowances downwards.
- Stitch shoulder edges simultaneously with the edge of the integrated collar. Clip allowances at the curve. Serge the shoulder seam area and press towards the back.
- Stitch shoulder seams of facings. Clip allowances. Serge the lower edge. Place the main garment and neckline facings right sides together and stitch the neckline edge. Turn facings to the wrong side, press the seam. Hand-tack facings to shoulder seams and zipper tape.
- Serge the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side, and topstitch.
