Utility Denim Shirt

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: denim fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 8 buttons.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem – 1.5 cm; other seams – 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Back - 1 piece
  • Front - 2 pieces
  • Back yoke – 1 piece
  • Placket — 4 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve tab – 2 pieces
  • Collar – 2 pieces
  • Collar stand – 2 pieces
  • Pocket – 2 pieces
  • Pocket facing – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Collar stand – 1 piece
  • Placket – 2 pieces
  • Collar – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
2. Stitch darts on the back, press seam allowances towards the center. Attach the yoke to the back. Overcast seam allowance and press upwards.
3. Form a box pleat on the pocket and secure it along the upper and lower edges. Fold the pocket facing in half lengthwise, right sides out, and stitch to the upper edge of the pocket. Overcast seam allowances and press upwards. Topstitch. Fold the side and bottom seam allowances of the pocket inwards and press. Topstitch the pocket onto the front according to markings.
4. Place placket pieces in pairs, right sides together, and stitch the outer edge. Turn pieces right side out and press. Attach the outer placket to the front, press seam allowances towards the placket. Fold the raw edge of the inner placket and topstitch into the attachment seam.
5. Stitch side and shoulder seams, press seam allowances towards the back and overcast.
6. Place the upper collar and lower collar right sides together. Stitch the ends and outer edge of the collar. Trim seams. Turn the collar right side out, shape, and press. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge. Place collar stand pieces right sides together, insert the prepared collar between them, align notches, and stitch, simultaneously stitching the ends of the collar stand. Start and end stitching precisely at the marked line of the collar stand attachment seam. Turn the prepared collar right side out and press. Stitch the upper collar stand with the collar to the neckline, fold under the raw edge of the lower collar stand and topstitch into the upper collar stand attachment seam.
7. Fold the tabs in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along the long and short edges. Turn right side out, trimming seam allowances at corners, shape, and press. Overcast the raw short edge. Topstitch the tabs onto the wrong side of the sleeves according to markings.
8. Stitch sleeve seams, press towards the back and overcast. Set sleeves into armholes, press seam allowances and overcast.
9. Overcast the bottom edge of the garment and sleeves, fold inwards, and topstitch.
10. On the right front, overcast buttonholes; on the left, sew on buttons. Overcast buttonholes on the tabs, sew on buttons on the sleeves.