Stand Collar Raglan Jacket

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: thin coat fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: lining fabric; fusible interfacing; separating zipper; 2 buttons. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE PATTERNS INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem – 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

CUTTER'S MUST

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH! ATTENTION! Markings on the patterns are on the right side!

• From main fabric:
  • Back – 1 piece on fold
  • Upper right front – 1 piece
  • Upper left front – 1 piece
  • Lower right front – 1 piece
  • Lower left front – 1 piece
  • Back sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Front sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Collar – 1 piece
  • Left placket – 1 piece
  • Right facing – 1 piece
  • Left facing – 1 piece
  • Flap – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Tab – 2 pieces
  • Yoke – 1 piece
• From lining fabric:
  • Back – 1 piece on fold
  • Front lining - 2 pieces
  • Back sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Front sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Yoke – 1 piece
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Collar – 1 piece
  • Left placket – 1 piece
  • Right facing – 1 piece
  • Left facing – 1 piece
  • Flap – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Tab – 2 pieces

ATTENTION! Back, back sleeve, and front sleeve pieces from lining fabric are cut according to the main fabric pieces, subtracting the back neckline facing and front facing respectively.

Sewing Instructions

1. Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
2. Stitch darts on the upper front pieces, press seam allowances upwards.
3. Fold the flap in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the short sides. Trim seam allowances at corners, turn the flap right side out, shape, and press. Place the flap according to markings on the lower front piece and secure along the upper edge.
4. Stitch the upper and lower front pieces, press seam allowances upwards and topstitch 0.7 cm from the seam.
5. Fold the yoke with the lining, right sides together, and stitch along the center and lower edges. Clip seam allowances at curves, turn the piece right side out, shape, and press.
6. On the right facing, place the right side of the separating zipper (teeth facing the edge) face down according to markings and stitch. Fold the right facing with the front piece, right sides together, and stitch the edge. Turn the facing to the wrong side, shape, and press. Place the yoke on the right front piece, securing it along the sleeve seam.
7. Fold the left placket in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the lower corner. Turn the piece right side out, shape, and press. Fold the left facing with the front piece, right sides together, inserting the placket and the left side of the separating zipper, and stitch the edge. Turn the facing to the wrong side, shape, and press.
8. Stitch the back sleeve pieces to the back, press seam allowances towards the back and topstitch 0.7 cm from the seam. Stitch the front sleeve pieces to the front, press seam allowances towards the front and topstitch 0.7 cm from the seam.
9. Fold the tab in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the long side and one short side. Turn the piece right side out, shape, and press.
10. Stitch the upper sleeve edges, press seam allowances towards the back. Stitch the lower sleeve edges and side edges in one continuous seam, inserting the tab, press seam allowances towards the back.
11. Fold the collar piece in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the ends, trim seam allowances at corners. Turn the collar right side out and press.
12. Stitch the shoulder edges of the facings and neckline facing, press seam allowances open. Secure the facings and neckline facing to the garment along the neckline edge. Stitch the outer side of the collar to the neckline, press seam allowances towards the collar. Fold the inner side of the collar inwards and topstitch into the seam of the outer side.
13. On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams and set in the sleeves, leaving an opening for turning in the upper part of the left side seam. Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the facings and neckline facing.
14. Face the bottom of the garment and sleeve hems with lining. Turn right side out, shape. Stitch the technical opening closed.
15. Work buttonholes on the tabs. Sew buttons on the sleeves accordingly.