Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers, lace fabric of a matching color. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; a concealed zipper. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: Hem allowance for the garment bottom – 2 cm, sleeve hem – 1.5 cm. Other allowances – 1.0 cm
CUTTER'S MUST
ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Back - 2 pieces
- Center front - 1 piece on fold
- Side front - 2 pieces
- Front neckline facing - 1 piece
- Back neckline facing - 2 pieces
- Front yoke – 2 pieces
- From lace:
- Front yoke – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Bow – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front neckline facing - 1 piece
- Back neckline facing - 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces. Fuse the slit area on the front.
- Stitch the darts on the back. Press the dart allowances towards the center. Overlock the center back edges separately. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the bottom. Press seam allowances open. Insert the concealed zipper.
- Place the lace yoke right side up onto the right side of the main fabric. Secure along the seam allowances. Then treat as one piece.
- Fold the bow piece in half lengthwise, right side out, and place it on the center front. Cut a bow loop 8 cm wide and 6 cm long. Fold the loop piece lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along the straight edge. Turn the piece right side out, wrap it around the bow, and secure it along the bottom edge. Attach the bow along the princess seams and bottom edges to the center front. Overlock the bottom edge.
- Overlock the center edges of the side front separately. Stitch the seam from the top to the slit mark. Press seam allowances open. Topstitch along the seam at 0.5 cm.
- Overlock the horizontal edge of the side front. Form pleats, with depths directed away from the center. Stitch the front princess seams, simultaneously stitching the pieces along the horizontal edge. Press the allowance towards the center and upwards respectively. Overlock the princess seams, press towards the center.
- Attach the yoke to the front. Overlock the allowance and press it towards the yoke.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the facings, press allowances open. Overlock the outer edge. Place the facings right sides together with the garment and stitch the neckline edge. Clip allowances at curves, trim at corners, turn pieces right side out.
- Stitch the sleeve seams, press allowances towards the back and overlock. Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches, overlock allowances and press.
- Overlock the hem allowance of the garment bottom and sleeve hem, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
