Pattern

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers in contrasting colors. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 6 buttons.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance – 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Back - 1 piece on fold
  • Front - 2 pieces
  • Right placket – 1 piece
  • Collar - 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Front facing - 2 pieces
  • Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
  • Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
• From main fabric 1:
  • Left placket – 1 piece
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
  • Welt – 2 pieces
  • Belt – 1 piece
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Right placket - 1 piece
  • Left placket - 1 piece
  • Collar - 1 piece
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
  • Front facing - 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to relevant pieces.
2. Mark the pocket placement on the front. Press the welt lengthwise in half, wrong sides together. Stitch the small pocket bag to the inner side of the welt. Stitch the welt to the front along the lower pocket marking line. Stitch the large pocket bag to the front along the upper pocket marking line. The ends of the stitches should finish at the short marking lines. Cut the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the welt and large pocket bag to the wrong side through the opening. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch the pocket bag edges, overcast.
3. Fold the placket lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch the short edges. Turn the placket right side out, straighten, and press. Stitch the placket to the edge of the front opening (the placket is shorter at the bottom by the width of the hem allowance).
4. Stitch the side and shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
5. Fold the collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Trim seams at corners, clip curves. Turn the collar right side out, straighten, and press. Stitch into the neckline.
6. Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facings and back neckline facing, press allowances open. Overcast the outer edge.
7. Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, and stitch the bottom corner, front edges, and neckline. Trim seams at corners. Turn the front edges right side out, straighten seams.
8. Stitch the cuff into a loop, press allowances open. Press the cuff lengthwise in half, right side out. Stitch the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, turn the allowance of the inner side inwards and topstitch into the attachment seam.
9. Overcast the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side, and hem with blind stitches.
10. Make buttonholes on the right placket, sew buttons on the left placket.
11. Fold the belt lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch, leaving an opening on the long side for turning. Turn the belt right side out, straighten, and press. Topstitch the belt around the perimeter 0.1 cm from the edge.