Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers in contrasting or related colors. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; elastic tape, 2 cm wide; concealed zipper. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all allowances – 1.0 cm. Hem allowance – 2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- Middle back part - 2 pieces
- Lower back part - 2 pieces
- Middle front part - 1 piece on fold
- Lower front part – 1 piece on fold
- Waistband – 1 piece
- From main fabric 1:
- Upper back part – 2 pieces
- Upper front part - 1 piece on fold
- Back ruffle - 1 piece on fold
- Front ruffle – 1 piece on fold
- Cuff - 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Front neckline facing – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Front neckline facing – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch waist and bust darts on back and front pieces, press waist dart depths towards the center, bust darts upwards.
- Attach the upper back part to the middle part, clipping at the corner. Press allowances upwards and serge. Stitch the upper and lower back parts and serge.
- Serge the center back edge separately on each piece. Stitch the center back edge from the zipper mark to the bottom. Press open the center seam allowances, pressing the slit. Insert the zipper.
- Attach the back ruffle to the lower back part, press allowances upwards and serge.
- Attach the upper front part to the middle part, clipping at the corner. Press allowances upwards and serge. Attach the front ruffle to the lower front part, press allowances upwards and serge. Stitch the upper and lower front parts and serge.
- Stitch side and shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and serge.
- Stitch shoulder seams of neckline facings, press allowances open, serge the outer edge. Place the dress with the facing right sides together and stitch the neckline edge. Clip allowances at curves, turn the facing to the wrong side and press. Secure the facing to the shoulder seams and zipper tape.
- Stitch the cuff into a loop, press allowances open. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise right side out and press. Along the lower edge of the sleeve, stitch with loosened upper thread and gather. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, fold the allowance of the inner side of the cuff inwards and topstitch into the seam of the outer cuff attachment, leaving a small opening. Thread elastic tape into the cuff, secure, and sew up the opening.
- Serge the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Fold the waistband in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch, leaving an opening on the long side for turning. Turn the waistband right side out, shape and press. Topstitch the waistband around the perimeter 0.1 cm from the edge.
