Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU ALSO NEED: fusible interlining; lining fabric; buckle; 6 outer buttons; 1 inner button.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: hem allowance — 2.0 cm, other seams 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED. WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back — 2 pieces
- Side front — 2 pieces
- Center front — 2 pieces
- Collar — 2 pieces
- Front facing — 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Belt – 1 piece
- Welt – 2 pieces
- Underlap – 2 pieces
- From fusible interlining:
- Collar — 1 piece
- Front facing — 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Welt – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
- Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Interface details with fusible interlining.
- Stitch back princess seams, press allowances towards the center and overcast. Stitch center back seam, press allowances to the left side and overcast.
- Mark pocket placement on the front. Press the welt in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Stitch the small pocket bag to the wrong side of the welt. Stitch the underlap to the large pocket bag. Stitch the welt to the front along the lower pocket marking line. Stitch the large pocket bag to the front along the upper pocket marking line. Stitching ends at the short marking lines. Cut open the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the welt and large pocket bag to the wrong side through the opening. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch pocket bag edges.
- Stitch front princess seams, press allowances towards the center and overcast.
- Stitch side and shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Fold collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked collar attachment line. Trim allowances at corners, clip at the notch. Turn collar right side out, shape and press.
- Stitch and press open shoulder seams of back neckline facing and front facing. Overcast the outer edge.
- Place front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge. Stitching is done upwards to the notch indicating the end of collar attachment. Trim seams at corners. Topstitch the front edge allowance: in the button placket area – onto the front facing, in the lapel area – onto the front. Place stitching 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn fronts right side out, shape seams.
- Stitch the under collar to the dress neckline, and the upper collar to the neckline of the back facing and front facing. Clip collar attachment seam allowances, press open and secure close to the seams.
- Cut (or use ready-made) bias binding 4 cm wide and length equal to armhole length + 4 cm. Fold bias binding in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place binding with armhole edge right sides together and stitch. Fold binding to the wrong side, clip allowances and topstitch along the fold onto the main piece. Press seam.
- Overcast the hem allowance of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- On the right front, overcast buttonholes, on the left front, sew on buttons. Overcast buttonhole on the left front, sew on inner button. Sew on decorative buttons.
- Fold belt in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along the long and short sides. Turn belt right side out, shape, press. Overcast the short side. Topstitch 0.1 cm from the edge around the perimeter. Thread and secure the buckle on the overcast side of the belt.
