Stand Collar Pleated Blouse with Shoulder Buttons

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: blouse fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 8 buttons.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance – 2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH! ATTENTION! Markings on the patterns are on the right side!

• From main fabric:
  • Back – 2 pieces
  • Front – 1 piece
  • Collar stand – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Collar stand – 1 piece
  • Cuff – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
2. Stitch the bust dart, press the dart allowance upwards. Fold and secure the pleats at the front neckline (pleat depths directed towards the center).
3. Finish the center back edges separately. Stitch the center back seam from the mark to the bottom edge, press seam allowances open. Topstitch along the edge of the slit at 0.2 cm.
4. Stitch shoulder and side seams, press allowances towards the back and finish edges.
5. Cut a bias strip 3 cm wide and 7 cm long. Fold the strip in half lengthwise and stitch at 0.3 cm from the fold. Trim allowances and turn the piece right side out. Adjust the loop length.
6. Place collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer edge and ends, inserting the loop, starting and ending the stitching precisely at the collar stand attachment line. Clip allowances at curves, trim corners, turn the collar stand right side out, shape, and press. Attach the outer collar stand to the neckline, turn under the raw edge of the inner collar stand, and topstitch into the attachment seam.
7. Along the lower edge of the sleeve, stitch with a loosened thread and gather. Finish sleeve edges separately. Stitch the sleeve seam from the armhole to the slit mark, press allowances open. Topstitch the slit at 0.1 cm from the fold. Set sleeves into armholes, press allowances and finish edges.
8. Place cuff pieces right sides together and stitch the side edges. Start and end stitching precisely at the marked cuff attachment seam line. Turn the piece right side out, press. Attach the outer cuff to the sleeve, turn under the allowance of the inner cuff, and topstitch into the attachment seam of the outer cuff.
9. Press the bottom hem of the garment to the wrong side twice by 1 cm and topstitch.
10. Sew a button on the collar stand. Make buttonholes on the cuffs, sew on buttons. Sew decorative buttons on the collar stand above the pleats.