Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 10 buttons. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem – 1.5 cm, other seams – 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- Back yoke - 1 piece
- Back - 2 pieces
- Front - 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- Tab – 2 pieces
- Placket – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Placket – 2 pieces
- Collar – 1 piece
- Collar stand – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch darts on the back. Press dart allowances towards the center. Stitch the center back seam. Overlock the allowance and press to the left side. Attach the back yoke to the back. Overlock the allowance and press upwards.
- Mark and stitch bust darts on the front, if provided by the size, press allowances upwards.
- Stitch side and shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Attach the outer edge of the placket to the front, press allowances towards the placket. Turn the inner edge of the placket inwards and topstitch into the seam of the outer placket attachment.
- Place the upper collar and lower collar right sides together. Stitch the ends and outer edge of the collar. Trim seams. Turn the collar right side out, shape, and press. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge. Place collar stand pieces right sides together, insert the finished collar between them, align notches, and stitch, simultaneously stitching the ends of the collar stand. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked line of the collar stand attachment seam. Turn the finished collar stand right side out and press. Attach the upper collar stand with the collar to the neckline, turn under the open edge of the lower collar stand and topstitch into the seam of the upper collar stand attachment.
- Fold the tabs in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along the long and short edges. Turn right side out, trimming allowances at the corners, shape, and press. Overlock the open short edge. Topstitch the tabs according to markings on the wrong side of the sleeves.
- Stitch the sleeve seam. Overlock the allowance and press towards the back. Set sleeves into armholes, press allowances and overlock.
- Overlock the bottom of the garment and sleeves, turn inwards, and topstitch.
- Overlock buttonholes on the right placket and collar stand, sew buttons on the left. Overlock buttonholes and sew buttons on the tabs.
