Open Front Jacket

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: soft suiting fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. Knitwear with a low degree of stretch. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interlining.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: All seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for jacket bottom and sleeve bottom - 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

• From main fabric:
  • Back – 1 piece on fold
  • Front – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
• From fusible interlining:
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

1. Interface the pieces with fusible interlining.
2. Stitch the darts on the front pieces, press the dart allowances upwards.
3. Stitch the collar seam, folding the front pieces right sides together, press the allowances open. Stitch and press open the jacket shoulder seams, serge the allowances. Clip the shoulder seam allowance on the front piece and set the collar into the back neckline, press the allowances towards the collar.
4. Stitch, clip at the corner, and press open the shoulder edges of the back neckline facing and front facing. Stitch the collar edge, press the allowances open. Set the collar into the facing neckline, press the allowances open. Serge the outer edge of the front facings and facing.
5. Fold the front facings and facing with the front piece right sides together and stitch the front edge, neckline, and bottom corner. Trim the allowances at the corners, clip at the curves. Turn the front edges right side out, smooth the seams, press. Secure the collar insertion allowances together.
6. Stitch the side seams, press the allowances towards the back and serge.
7. Stitch the sleeve seam, press the allowances towards the back and serge. Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches, press and serge the allowances.
8. Serge the bottom of the garment and sleeves, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Topstitch along the front edge and collar 0.5 cm from the edge.