Fabric & Materials
dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. Finishing fabric in a contrasting or related color. ALSO, YOU WILL NEED: a concealed zipper, fusible interfacing.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEN THE PATTERNS INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES; IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THEN THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance – 2.0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Back - 2 pieces
- Front - 1 piece on fold
- Sleeve - 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Front neckline facing – 1 piece
- From finishing fabric:
- Sleeve trim - 2 pieces
- Front trim - 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Front neckline facing – 1 piece
- Sleeve trim - 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Reinforce pieces with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch darts on the front, press allowances upwards.
- Serge the center back edges separately on each piece. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper notch to the hem, press allowances open. Insert the concealed zipper.
- Press the allowances of the side and bottom of the front trim to the wrong side. Topstitch the trim onto the front according to the markings.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and serge.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the neckline facings, press allowances open. Serge the outer edge. Place the facings with the garment right sides together and stitch the neckline edge. Clip allowances, turn the facing to the wrong side, straighten, press. Secure to the main garment at the shoulder seams and zipper tape.
- Serge the sleeve edges separately. Stitch the sleeve seam from the armhole to the mark, press allowances open. Serge the side edges of the sleeve trim and the top edge separately. Stitch the trim into a loop from the top edge to the mark, press allowances open. Place the trim with the sleeve right sides together and stitch the side edges and the bottom edge. Trim allowances at corners, turn the trim to the wrong side, press. Hand stitch the top edge of the trim to the sleeve with blind stitches.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching notches, press allowances and serge.
- Serge the hem allowance of the garment, press to the wrong side and hand stitch with blind stitches.
