Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: dense knit fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: knit fusible interfacing. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Lower back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Center front – 4 pieces
- Cuff — 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
Tip: Knit fabric pieces are stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. When serging, trim seam allowances to 0.6 – 0.8 cm. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle to maintain elasticity.
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces. Along the back neckline, apply an additional fusible stay tape.
- Stitch the princess seam on the front. Press the seam allowance towards the center front.
- Attach the lower back to the back. Press the seam allowance downwards.
- Clip the shoulder seam allowance on the front. Stitch the side and shoulder seams, simultaneously with the sleeve seams. Serge and press the seam allowances towards the back.
- Stitch the collar seam. Press the seam allowance open. Attach the collar to the back neckline. Press the seam allowance open.
- Stitch the inner collar seam. Press the seam allowance open. Clip the corner on the center piece and attach the collar to the back facing neckline. Press the seam allowance open. Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and the inner center piece. Stitch the side seam of the inner back and front pieces. Press the seam allowances open. Serge the outer edges along the contour.
- Place the jacket and inner pieces right sides together, pin, aligning the outer edges. Stitch along the front opening, bottom, and collar.
- Turn the inner pieces to the wrong side and topstitch into the attaching seam.
- Stitch the cuff into a loop, press the seam allowance open. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise and press. Attach the cuff to the bottom of the sleeve. Serge the seam allowance.
