Asymmetric Closure Short Coat
A women's semi-fitted short coat with an off-centre button closure, a wide collar that follows the asymmetric opening, a rounded front hem and princess seams front and back with in-seam pockets. Fully lined.
When To Wear
- In autumn and spring over a dress, a sweater or a blouse.
- With slim trousers or a narrow skirt.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Semi-fitted, shaped by princess seams on the front and back and by back darts.
Length: Upper thigh, with the front edge curving into a rounded hem; 3 cm hem allowance, fused.
Collar: Large two-piece collar: the under collar is sewn to the coat neckline, the interfaced upper collar to the facings, and the collar edge is stitched together with the front edge in one seam.
Closure: Asymmetric, four buttons in a line off the centre front; buttonholes on the right front, buttons on the left front, plus an inner buttonhole and a hidden button holding the underlap.
Pockets: In-seam pockets in the front princess seams, with lining pocket bags; openings interfaced.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with an eased cap, shoulder pads and sleeve heads; hem allowance 3 cm, fused.
Back: Centre back seam, princess seams from the armholes and darts.
Lining: Full lining with separate front lining pieces; back lining cut from the main pieces minus the back neck facing.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. An asymmetric faced front with a collar set between the coat and the facings, in-seam pockets in princess seams, two-piece sleeves with sleeve heads and a bagged full lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Coating fabric made of natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (centre fronts, front facings, back neck facing, upper collar, hem and sleeve hem allowances, pocket openings)
- 4 buttons
- 1 inner button
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
When stitching parts, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Front lining – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Pocket bag – 4 pieces
- From fusible interlining:
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Collar – 1 piece
Attention: Back lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric patterns, minus the width of the back neckline facing.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interlining to the designated pieces. Also fuse the hem allowance of the garment bottom and sleeve bottom. Fuse the pocket opening.
- Stitch the back darts, press the seam allowances towards the center. Stitch the back princess seams, press the seam allowances open. Stitch the center back seam, press the seam allowances open.
- Attach the pocket bags to the center front and side front, press the seam allowances towards the pocket bag. Stitch the front princess seams, simultaneously stitching the pocket bags. Press the seam allowances open, clipping the corner on the side front. Press the pocket bags towards the center.
- Stitch and press open the side and shoulder seams of the coat.
- Attach the undercollar to the neckline. Press the seam allowances open.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facings. Attach the upper collar to the neckline. Press the seam allowances open. Place the front facings and neckline facing right sides together with the front, and stitch the front edge, collar edge, and bottom corner. Trim seam allowances at corners, clip curves. Turn the front edges to the right side, straighten seams, press.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve. Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches, easing the sleeve cap. Insert shoulder pads, attach sleeve heads.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams and set the sleeves, leaving an opening in the front left sleeve seam. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and neckline facing. Press the bottom edge of the garment to the wrong side. Attach the lining to the bottom of the garment and the bottom of the sleeve. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening. Close the opening.
- Make buttonholes on the right front, sew buttons on the left. On the left front, make buttonholes, sew a hidden button on the wrong side of the right front.
