Fitted Double Breasted Peacoat

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: coat fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: lining fabric; fusible interfacing; 6 buttons; 1 inner button; shoulder pads.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance - 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Center back – 2 pieces
  • Side back – 2 pieces
  • Center front – 2 pieces
  • Side front – 2 pieces
  • Upper collar – 1 piece
  • Under collar - 1 piece
  • Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Under sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Welt – 2 pieces
• From lining fabric:
  • Center back – 2 pieces
  • Side back – 2 pieces
  • Center front – 2 pieces
  • Side front – 2 pieces
  • Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Under sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Pocket bag – 4 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Center front – 2 pieces
  • Front facing — 2 pieces
  • Upper collar – 1 piece
  • Back neckline facing — 1 piece
  • Welt – 2 pieces
  • Cuff – 2 pieces

ATTENTION: Back and front lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the back neckline facing and front facing respectively. Also, the armhole allowances of the back, the garment hem, and the allowance along the pocket opening are interfaced.

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

1. Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
2. Stitch the back darts, press the dart intakes towards the center. Stitch the back princess seams, press the allowances open. Stitch the center back seam, press the allowances open.
3. On the center front, stitch the darts, press the dart intakes upwards. Stitch the front princess seams, press the allowances open.
4. On the front, mark the pocket placement with two parallel lines of stitching. Fold the welt in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the short ends. Turn the welt right side out and press. Topstitch along the contour 1 cm from the edge. On the welt, mark the line defining the finished width of the welt. Stitch the pocket bag to the wrong side of the welt, aligning the pieces at the center. Place the welt face down on the right side of the front, aligning with the marked line. Stitch the welt. Stitch the second pocket bag to the other pocket marking line. Cut the pocket opening in the middle between the marking lines, making diagonal cuts towards the corners of the pocket marking. Turn the pocket pieces to the wrong side. Straighten and press the seam allowances. Stitch the pocket bag edges, securing the pocket corners. Topstitch the welt to the front along the short sides.
5. Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the garment, press the allowances open.
6. Place the upper collar and under collar right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Start and end the stitching precisely at the marked collar attachment line. Trim the seams at the curves, clip at the notch. Turn the collar right side out, straighten and press.
7. Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facings and back neckline facing, press the allowances open.
8. Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge and lapel. Stitch upwards to the notch that defines the end of the collar attachment. Trim the seams at the corners. Understitch the front edge seam allowance: in the button placket area – to the front facing, in the lapel area – to the front. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the fronts right side out, straighten the seams.
9. Stitch the under collar to the neckline of the main garment, and the upper collar to the neckline edge of the back facing and front facings. Press the collar attachment seam allowances open and secure close to the seams.
10. Stitch and press open the front sleeve seam. Press the cuff in half lengthwise, right side out. Unfold the cuff and stitch the outer edge to the lower edge of the sleeve, press the allowances towards the cuff. Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve, simultaneously stitching the cuff. Set the sleeve into the armhole. Attach shoulder pads.
11. On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams, leaving an opening in the left side seam for turning. Stitch the lining to the front facings and neckline facing. Stitch the lower corner of the front edge, trim the corners. Mark and press the garment hem to the wrong side. Stitch the lining to the garment hem. Stitch the lining sleeves to the inner cuff. Turn the garment right side out through the opening and stitch the technical opening closed.
12. Buttonhole the right front. Sew buttons to the left front. Sew decorative buttons to the right front. Buttonhole the inner buttonhole on the left front, sew on the hidden button.