Fabric & Materials
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: well-draping blouse fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 2 buttons.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance – 2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH! ATTENTION! INSCRIPTIONS ON THE PATTERNS ARE MADE ON THE FACE SIDE!
- From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece with fold
- Front - 1 piece
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- Sleeve facing – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar stand – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Cut a bias strip for finishing the back slit, equal to twice the slit length + 4 cm and 5 cm wide. Press the bias strip in half lengthwise, right side out. Mark the slit line on the back, cut it. Lay the back flat along the slit line, place the bias strip on the right side, aligning the raw edges, and stitch. The seam allowance along the slit length is 0.5 – 0.7 cm, decreasing to 0.2 cm at the bottom of the slit. Fold the bias strip to the wrong side, enclosing the seam, and topstitch into the seam line.
- Stitch the bust darts, press the fullness upwards.
- Fold the front right sides together along the center fold line and stitch the pleat from the top edge exactly to the neckline line. Clip the seam allowances at the neckline. Turn the pleat to the right side, straighten, overcast the top edge.
- Stitch the shoulder seams, press the seam allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Cut a bias strip 2.5 cm wide and 10 cm long for the loop closures. Fold the strip in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch 0.3 cm from the fold. Trim the seam allowances close to the stitching, turn the strip right side out and straighten the rouleau. Cut into two pieces, adjust loop length.
- Place the collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer edge and the back edge, inserting the loops on the left side, starting and ending the stitching exactly at the collar stand attachment line. Clip the seam allowances at the curves, trim at the corners, turn the collar stand right side out, and press.
- Stitch the outer collar stand to the neckline, folding back the pleat, press the seam allowances towards the collar stand. Turn under the raw edge of the inner collar stand and topstitch into the attachment seam. Fold the pleat around the collar stand and secure it to the attachment seam.
- Press the sleeve facing in half lengthwise, right side out. Stitch the facing to the armhole, press the seam allowances towards the facing, overcast.
- Stitch the side seams, press the seam allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Press the hem of the garment to the wrong side by 1 cm, then another 1 cm, and topstitch.
- Sew buttons to the collar stand.
