Woven Collared Button-Front Blouse with Cuffs

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: dense blouse fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: fusible interfacing; 8 buttons.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: Hem allowance - 1.5 cm. Other allowances - 1.0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details).

• From main fabric:
  • Back yoke - 1 piece on fold
  • Back - 1 piece on fold
  • Front - 1 piece on fold
  • Placket - 2 pieces
  • Collar - 2 pieces
  • Collar stand - 2 pieces
  • Sleeve - 2 pieces
  • Cuff - 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Placket - 2 pieces
  • Collar - 1 piece
  • Collar stand - 1 piece
  • Cuff - 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH! CUTTING:

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
2. At the upper edge of the back, create and secure a box pleat. Attach the yoke to the back, press seam allowances upwards and overcast.
3. Stitch bust darts, press depths upwards.
4. Along the short horizontal edge of the front, stitch with loosened upper thread and gather. Press plackets lengthwise in half, right side out. On the right placket, overcast buttonholes. Attach plackets to the right side of the front along the long edge, stopping 1 cm from the bottom. Clip the front allowance at the corners, stopping 1 mm from the stitching line. Tuck the ends of the plackets inwards and stitch, securing the bottom edge. Overcast allowances.
5. Stitch shoulder and side seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
6. Place collar pieces right sides together, stitch along the ends and outer edge. Trim allowances at corners, turn collar right side out, straighten, press. Place collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer edge, inserting the collar. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked line of the collar stand attachment seam. Trim allowances, turn collar stand right side out and press.
7. Attach the outer collar stand with the collar to the neckline, fold under the open edge of the inner collar stand and topstitch into the attachment seam.
8. Overcast sleeve edges separately. Stitch the sleeve seam from the mark upwards, press allowances open. Stitch a securing line along the slit 0.1 cm from the edge. Set sleeves into armholes, press allowances and overcast.
9. Fold the cuff lengthwise in half, right side out, and stitch the side edges. Turn the piece right side out, press. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, fold the allowance of the inner side of the cuff inwards and topstitch into the attachment seam of the outer cuff.
10. Overcast the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
11. Overcast buttonholes and sew buttons on the collar stand and cuffs. Sew buttons on the left front.