Fitted Button-Front Blouse with Collar and Cuffs

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: blouse fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 9 buttons.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: Hem allowance – 2 cm; all other seams – 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

• From main fabric:
  • Center back – 1 piece on fold
  • Side back – 2 pieces
  • Center upper front – 2 pieces
  • Center lower front – 2 pieces
  • Side front – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Cuff — 4 pieces
  • Placket — 2 pieces
  • Collar stand – 2 pieces
  • Collar – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Placket — 2 pieces
  • Collar stand – 1 piece
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
  • Collar – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
2. Stitch the back princess seam. Overcast the allowance and press towards the center.
3. Fold and stitch the darts on the front. Press the dart depths away from the center. Stitch the center front pieces together. Overcast the allowance and press downwards. Stitch the front princess seams. Overcast the allowances and press towards the center.
4. Press the placket lengthwise in half, right side out. Stitch the outer side of the placket to the center front piece, press allowances towards the placket. Fold under the raw edge of the inner placket and topstitch into the seam.
5. Stitch shoulder seams. Press allowances towards the back and overcast.
6. Place the upper collar and lower collar right sides together. Stitch the ends and outer edge of the collar. Trim seams, clip corners. Turn the collar right side out, shape and press. Place the collar stand pieces right sides together, insert the prepared collar between them, align notches and stitch, simultaneously stitching the ends of the stand. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked seam line for attaching the stand. Turn the finished collar right side out and press. Stitch the upper collar stand with the collar to the neckline, fold under the raw edge of the lower stand and topstitch into the seam of the upper stand.
7. Stitch side seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
8. Along the sleeve cap, stitch a gathering stitch with loosened upper thread and gather. Stitch the sleeve seams. Overcast allowances and press towards the back. Set sleeves into armholes, press allowances and overcast.
9. Stitch cuffs into a loop, press allowances open. Place cuffs in pairs right sides together and stitch along the upper edge. Turn the cuff right side out, press. Place the right side of the cuff with the wrong side of the sleeve and stitch. Overcast the allowance. Fold the cuff upwards, covering the seam.
10. Fold the hem of the garment inwards by 1 cm, then another 1 cm, and topstitch.
11. On the right placket and collar stand, make buttonholes; on the left, sew on buttons. Sew buttons on the cuffs through to the sleeve.