Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: concealed zipper; fusible interfacing.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the garment bottom – 2.5 cm, hem allowance for the sleeve bottom – 1.2 cm, allowance along the vent – 6 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Upper back part – 2 pieces
- Back waistband - 1 piece
- Lower back part - 2 pieces
- Lower front part – 1 piece on fold
- Front waistband - 1 piece
- Upper front part - 1 piece on fold
- Back neckline facing - 2 pieces
- Front neckline facing – 1 piece
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back neckline facing - 2 pieces
- Front neckline facing – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch darts on the back pieces and lower front part, press allowances towards the center of the pieces. Stitch darts on the upper front part, folding the piece right side out, press allowances towards the side seams.
- Attach the back waistband to the upper back part, press allowances towards the waistband and overcast. Attach the lower back part to the back waistband, press allowances towards the waistband and overcast.
- On the left lower back part, trim 5 cm along the vertical edge of the vent. Interface the vent on the wrong side of both lower back pieces. On the right side, mark the center seam line (vent fold line). Press the left part along the vent fold line, on the right part, press only the allowance of the right side of the vent (6 cm) to the wrong side. Align the pieces along the center seam and secure at the upper edge of the vent. Overcast the center back seam separately on each piece. Overcast the vent allowances. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the vent corner. Clip the corner of the vent seam allowance on the right part. Press open the center seam allowances, press the vent allowances and secure them with machine stitching. Insert the concealed zipper.
- Cut a bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the front pocket opening length + 2 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise right side out and press. Place the binding with the pocket opening right sides together, extending the ends, and stitch. Fold the binding to the wrong side, clip the seams and topstitch along the fold onto the main piece. Press the pocket.
- Overcast the outer perpendicular edges of the pocket, press allowances to the wrong side. Place the pocket according to the markings on the front half and topstitch. Secure the pocket allowances to the upper and side edges.
- Attach the front waistband to the upper front part, press allowances towards the waistband and overcast. Attach the lower front part to the front waistband, press allowances towards the waistband and overcast.
- Stitch shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Overcast the lower sleeve edge, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Stitch side seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Stitch shoulder seams of neckline facings, press allowances open. Overcast the outer edge. Place facings right sides together with the garment and stitch the neckline edge. Clip allowances at curves, turn facings to the wrong side and press. Topstitch the allowance to the facing at 0.1 – 0.2 cm. Secure the facing at the shoulder seams and zipper tape.
- Overcast the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
