Fitted Peplum Dress with Pleats

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: dense dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: invisible zipper.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for the garment bottom and peplum bottom – 1.2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). ATTENTION! MARKINGS ON THE PATTERNS ARE ON THE RIGHT SIDE!

• From main fabric:
  • Upper back part - 2 pieces
  • Back insert - 2 pieces
  • Lower back part - 2 pieces
  • Back peplum - 2 pieces
  • Upper front part - 1 piece
  • Front insert - 1 piece
  • Lower front part - 1 piece on fold
  • Front peplum - 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

1. On the upper back parts, create and secure pleats, with depths directed towards the side seam. Stitch the back insert to the upper back part, press seam allowances towards the insert and overcast.
2. Stitch darts on the lower back parts, press depths towards the center.
3. Create and secure pleats on the upper front part (two on the right side, three on the left side), with depths directed towards the side seams. Stitch the front insert to the upper front part, press seam allowances towards the insert and overcast.
4. Stitch shoulder seams, press seam allowances towards the back and overcast.
5. Cut (if not ready-made) a bias binding 4 cm wide, with a length equal to the neckline length + 4 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the binding with the neckline edge right side together and stitch, fold the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold onto the main piece.
6. Cut (if not ready-made) a bias binding 4 cm wide, with a length equal to the armhole length. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the binding with the armhole edge right side together and stitch, fold the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold onto the main piece.
7. Create and secure pleats on the front peplum, with depths directed towards the side seam. Stitch the side seams of the peplums, press seam allowances open, overcast. Overcast the bottom edge of the peplum, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
8. Stitch the side seams of the upper and lower parts of the garment, press seam allowances towards the back and overcast.
9. Place the peplum wrong side onto the right side of the lower part and secure along the edges. Stitch the upper and lower parts of the garment, press seam allowances upwards and overcast.
10. Overcast the center back edges separately, stitch them from the zipper mark to the bottom, press seam allowances open. Insert the zipper.
11. Overcast the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.