Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: medium stretch knit fabric made of natural or blended fibers.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all allowances – 1 cm. Hem allowance, center edge of the flying front – 1.2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH! LABELS ON THE PATTERNS ARE ON THE RIGHT SIDE!
- From main fabric:
- Back - 1 piece on fold
- Front - 1 piece on fold
- Flying front part - 1 piece
Tip: Knit fabric pieces are stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. When serging, trim allowances to 0.8 cm. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle to maintain elasticity. You can also stitch pieces directly on a 3- or 4-thread overlock machine.
Sewing Instructions
- Stitch bust darts on the front and flying front part, press the fullness upwards.
- Serge the center and bottom edges of the flying front part, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Place the flying front part wrong side up onto the right side of the front and secure along the right shoulder, side seam, and armhole edge.
- Stitch the right shoulder seam, press allowances towards the back and serge.
- Cut (if not ready-made) a bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the neckline length + 5 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise with the right side out and press. Place the binding along the neckline edge with the right side and stitch. Clip the allowances. Fold the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
- Fold and secure pleats on the left shoulder edge of the flying front part. Fullness directed outwards, edges towards the neckline. Secure the left shoulder edges of the front and flying front part.
- Stitch the left shoulder seam, press allowances towards the back and serge.
- Cut (if not ready-made) a bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the armhole length + 4 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise with the right side out and press. Place the binding along the armhole edge with the right side and stitch, fold the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold to the main piece.
- Stitch side seams, press allowances towards the back and serge.
- Serge the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
