CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- Upper back part – 2 pieces
- Lower back part – 2 pieces
- Upper front part – 2 pieces
- Lower front part – 1 piece on fold
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Belt – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Belt – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch shoulder and waist darts on back pieces, press dart allowances towards the center. Stitch upper and lower back parts, press allowances upwards and serge.
- On both back pieces, from the wrong side, fuse interfacing to the vent. Serge the center back edge separately on each piece. Serge the vent allowances. On the right side, mark the center seam line (vent fold line). Press the left part along the vent fold line; on the right part, press only the allowance of the right side of the vent (1 cm) to the wrong side. Align the pieces along the center seam and secure at the upper edge of the vent. Stitch the center back edge from the zipper mark to the vent corner. Clip the corner of the vent seam allowance on the right part. Press open the center seam allowances, press the vent allowances and secure them with machine stitching. Insert the zipper.
- Serge the outer edge of the front facing. Place the front facing onto the upper front part and stitch the lapel edge from the shoulder seam to the mark. Clip allowances at the shoulder seam and mark, turn the front facing to the wrong side, straighten, and press.
- Trim the waist dart allowances of the upper front part to 1 cm. Place the right front part over the left, secure at the lower edge. Stitch bust darts, press allowances and serge.
- Stitch waist darts on the lower front part, press dart allowances towards the center. Stitch upper and lower front parts, press allowances downwards and serge.
- Serge the outer edge of the back neckline facing. Place the neckline facing onto the back and stitch the neckline edge exactly to the marked shoulder seam line. Clip allowances, turn the facing to the wrong side and press. Attach the facing to the zipper tape.
- Stitch shoulder seams, inserting the front part between the back and the back neckline facing. Press allowances towards the back and serge.
- Stitch side seams, press allowances towards the back and serge.
- Stitch sleeve edges, press allowances and serge. Set sleeves into armholes, press allowances and serge.
- Serge the hem allowances of the garment and sleeves, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Fold the belt lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch, leaving an opening on the long side for turning. Turn the belt right side out, straighten, and press. Close the opening. Serge buttonholes, sew on buttons.
