Short Sleeve Belted Blazer
Introducing a chic short-sleeve blazer pattern, distinguished by its structured lapels, functional flap pockets, and an adjustable belted waist for a flattering silhouette.
When To Wear
- Casual Business & Office: Provides a polished yet comfortable look for professional settings.
- Stylish Everyday Wear: Elevates denim or simple trousers for a smart-casual ensemble.
- Warm Weather Layering: Offers a light, fashionable outer layer for spring and summer days.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: A semi-fitted silhouette, cinched at the waist by an adjustable belt, with a subtle flare at the hem.
Neckline & Collar: Features a classic notched lapel and a sharp collar, leading to a single-breasted front.
Closure: Secured at the front with two visible buttons.
Sleeves: Short, cuffed sleeves ending above the elbow, providing a relaxed yet neat finish.
Pockets: Two prominent patch pockets at the hips, each featuring a shaped flap and a distinct framed opening.
Back: Designed with a sophisticated back yoke and vertical princess seams for shaping, ensuring a tailored fit.
Waist: Defined by a fabric casing through which a self-fabric belt threads, allowing for adjustable waist cinching.
Hem: A slightly curved hemline that sits at the high hip.
Details: Enhanced with visible topstitching along seams, lapels, pockets, and cuffs, adding a casual, finished aesthetic.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Involves precise collar and lapel construction, setting in sleeves, creating framed flap pockets, and constructing a belt casing.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose medium-weight woven fabrics with some body that hold their shape well, suitable for structured garments:
- Denim (light to medium weight)
- Chambray
- Linen or Linen blends
- Gabardine
- Cotton Twill
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- Lining fabric for pockets
- 2 buttons
CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Back yoke – 1 piece
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Front yoke – 2 pieces
- Under collar - 1 piece
- Upper collar – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Drawstring casing – 1 piece
- Flap – 4 pieces
- Pocket frame – 2 pieces
- Belt – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
- Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Upper collar - 1 piece
- Flap – 2 pieces
- Pocket frame – 2 pieces
- Belt – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces. On the front piece, along the lapel roll line, apply a 1 cm wide grainline stay (from fusible interfacing).
- Stitch the center back seam, overcast the allowances, and press them to the left side. Attach the back yoke to the back. Overcast the allowances and press them towards the yoke. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Stitch the back princess seams. Overcast the allowances and press them towards the center. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Attach the front yoke to the front. Overcast the allowances and press them towards the yoke. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Stitch the front princess seams. Overcast the allowances and press them towards the center. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Place flap pieces in pairs right sides together and stitch along the side and bottom edges. Trim seam allowances, clip curves, turn right side out, and press. Mark the pocket placement with parallel lines. Fold the pocket frame in half wrong sides together and press. Mark auxiliary lines on the pocket frame and flap for stitching parallel to the fold. Attach the large pocket bag to the flap. Attach the pocket frame and flap to the front piece. Cut the front piece along the marked line on the pattern. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the pocket frame and flap through the opening to the wrong side, and straighten the edges. Secure the pocket corners from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Attach the small pocket bag to the seam of the pocket frame. Stitch the pocket bag edges, overcast the allowances.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams. Overcast the allowances and press them towards the back.
- Fold the short allowances of the drawstring casing inwards twice by 1 cm and topstitch. Press the longitudinal allowances inwards and topstitch the drawstring casing onto the jacket along the marked lines.
- Place the upper collar and under collar right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked collar attachment line. Trim seam allowances at curves, clip at the mark. Turn the collar right side out, straighten, and press.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front piece, right side down, pin, and stitch along the front edge. Stitch up to the notch indicating the end of the collar attachment.
- Attach the under collar to the jacket neckline, and the upper collar to the neckline edge of the back facing and front facing. Press open the collar attachment seam allowances and secure them close to the seams.
- Stitch the sleeve seam, press the allowance towards the back. Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches, easing the sleeve cap at the top.
- Overcast the hem of the sleeve and jacket, fold inwards, and topstitch. Topstitch along the front edge and collar 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Make buttonholes and sew on buttons.
- Fold the belt piece in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch along the contour, leaving a technical opening. Trim seam allowances at corners, turn the piece right side out, and press. Close the technical opening. Thread the belt through the drawstring casing.
