CUTTER'S MUST
From main fabric:
- Upper back part – 2 pieces
- Back waistband — 2 pieces
- Lower back part — 2 pieces
- Upper front part — 2 pieces
- Front waistband — 1 piece
- Lower front part — 1 piece on fold
- Sleeve — 2 pieces
- Collar — 4 pieces
- Front facing — 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
From fusible interfacing:
- Collar — 2 pieces
- Front facing — 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to designated pieces.
- Stitch darts on the upper back pieces, press seam allowances towards the center. Attach the back waistband to the upper back, press seam allowances towards the waistband and serge.
- Form and secure inverted pleats on the lower back piece. Stitch the upper and lower back pieces together, press seam allowances upwards and serge.
- Serge the center back edges separately on each piece. Stitch the center back seam from the notch for the zipper to the hem, press seam allowances open. Insert the zipper.
- Stitch darts on the upper front pieces, press seam allowances towards the center.
- Fold collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the ends, outer edge, and center back seam. Start and end stitching precisely at the marked collar attachment line. Trim seam allowances at corners. Turn collar right side out, shape, and press.
- Stitch shoulder seams, press seam allowances towards the back and serge. Stitch and press open shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facings. Serge the outer edge.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front piece, right side down, pin, and stitch along the front edge. Stitch upwards to the notch indicating the end of the collar attachment. Trim seams at corners. Turn facings right side out, shape seams.
- Attach the undercollar to the dress neckline, and the upper collar to the neckline of the back facing and front facing. Clip, press open, and secure the collar attachment seam allowances close to the seams. Secure the facing to the main garment at the shoulder seams, attach to the zipper tape.
- Overlap the right front piece over the left and secure at the lower edge. Attach the front waistband to the upper front, press seam allowances towards the waistband and serge.
- Form and secure inverted pleats on the lower front piece. Stitch the upper and lower front pieces together, press seam allowances upwards and serge.
- Stitch side seams, press seam allowances towards the back and serge.
- Stitch the sleeve seam, press seam allowances and serge. Set the sleeve into the armhole, matching notches, press seam allowances and serge.
- Serge the bottom edge of the garment and sleeves, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
