CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- Center back part – 2 pieces
- Side back part – 2 pieces
- Lower back part – 1 piece
- Center front part – 2 pieces
- Side front part – 2 pieces
- Lower front part – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Upper front facing – 2 pieces
- Lower front facing – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Welt – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center back part – 2 pieces
- Center front part – 2 pieces
- Side back part – 2 pieces
- Side front part – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Lower front part – 2 pieces
- Lower back part – 1 piece
- Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
- Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
- FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: center front part, back neckline facing, upper front facing, lower front facing, upper collar.
ATTENTION: lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric pieces, subtracting the width of the front facing and back neckline facing.
Sewing Instructions
- Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
- On the back, stitch the princess seams. Press seam allowances towards the center. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Stitch the center back seam. Press seam allowances open. Attach the lower back part. Press seam allowance open.
- Mark the pocket placement. Press the welt lengthwise in half, wrong sides together. Stitch the small pocket bag to the inner side of the welt. Attach the welt to the front along the lower pocket marking line. Attach the large pocket bag to the front along the upper pocket marking line. The ends of the stitching should stop at the short marking lines. Cut the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the welt and large pocket bag to the wrong side through the opening. Secure the ends of the pocket from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch the pocket bag edges.
- On the front, stitch the princess seams. Press seam allowances towards the center. Topstitch 0.5 cm along the seam. Attach the lower front part in two stages. From the edge of the front opening to the buttonhole mark and from the buttonhole mark to the side seam. Press seam allowance open.
- Fold the upper collar with the undercollar and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Trim seams at corners. Turn the collar right side out, shape, and press. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge along the collar. Attach the collar to the neckline.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams of the jacket.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve. Press the hem allowance inwards. Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching notches. Insert shoulder pads, attach sleeve head rolls.
- Stitch the front facing pieces in two stages. From the edge of the front opening to the buttonhole mark and from the buttonhole mark to the inner edge. Press seam allowances open.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facings.
- On the lining pieces, stitch the seams and set in the sleeves, leaving an opening in the front right sleeve seam. Attach the lining to the front facings and neckline facing.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin, and stitch along the front opening, bottom, and neckline. Attach the lining to the sleeve hem. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening. Secure the seam allowances of the front and front facings, forming a loop. Secure the waist seam allowances together. Close the opening in the sleeve.
- On the right front, overcast buttonholes, and on the left front, sew on buttons.
