Cropped Double-Breasted Three-Quarter Sleeve Jacket
Discover a chic women's sewing pattern for a cropped double-breasted jacket, featuring elegant notched lapels, a shaped front hem, and stylish three-quarter sleeves.
When To Wear
This jacket offers versatile elegance, making it a perfect choice for:
- Smart-Casual Outings: Elevate everyday ensembles with a touch of sophisticated charm.
- Office & Business Casual: A polished layering piece for professional environments.
- Special Events: Transition seamlessly from day to evening wear at social gatherings.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Cropped and tailored, with a fitted body that subtly tapers at the waist and a graceful, curved front hem.
Neckline & Collar: Features classic notched lapels and a structured collar for a refined neckline.
Closure: Double-breasted front with two visible button closures and an internal button for secure fastening.
Sleeves: Elegant three-quarter length sleeves, constructed in two pieces for a tailored fit.
Back: A clean, fitted back with a central seam providing subtle shaping.
Hem: Distinctive curved front hem that dips slightly, contrasting with a straight back hemline.
Length: Cropped, designed to hit at or just above the natural waistline.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires experience with collar and lapel construction, setting in sleeves, lining, and working with fusible interfacing.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose fabrics with a good drape and body to support the jacket's tailored structure:
- Wool crepe
- Tweed
- Medium-weight suiting fabrics
- Gabardine
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing
- 3 buttons (2 external, 1 internal)
CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Collar - 2 pieces
- Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neck Facing – 1 piece
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
- Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neck Facing – 1 piece
- Collar - 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces. On the front, along the lapel roll line, apply a 1 cm wide stay tape (from fusible interfacing).
- Stitch darts on the back, press allowances towards the center. Stitch and press open the center back seam.
- Stitch darts on the front. Press allowances upwards.
- Stitch and press open the jacket shoulder seams.
- Place the upper collar on the lower collar, right sides together, and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Start and end stitching precisely at the marked collar attachment line. Trim seams at curves, clip at the notch. Turn the collar right side out, shape, and press.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neck facing and front facing.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin, and stitch along the front edge. Stitch upwards to the notch indicating the end of the collar attachment. Trim seams at curves. Understitch the front edge seam allowance: in the fastening area – to the front facing, in the lapel area – to the jacket front. Place the stitching 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front edges right side out, shape the seams.
- Attach the lower collar to the jacket neckline, and the upper collar to the neckline of the back facing and front facing, clipping at the corner. Clip the collar attachment seam allowances, press open, and secure close to the seams.
- Fold the attached front facing down at the side seam and stitch the side seams. Press the back allowance upwards.
- Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press allowances open. Press up the hem allowance. Stitch the front seam of the sleeve. Press allowances open. Set sleeves into armholes. Press allowances.
- Stitch the lining pieces, leaving a technological opening in the elbow seam of the left sleeve. Attach the lining to the back neck facing, front facing, and bottom of the back. Attach the lining to the sleeve hem. Turn the jacket right side out through the technological opening. Close the opening.
- Make buttonholes and sew on buttons. Sew on the inner button.
