Pattern

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: All seams - 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width should be at least 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED.

• From main fabric:
  • Center upper back part – 2 pieces
  • Side upper back part – 2 pieces
  • Lower back part – 1 piece on fold
  • Lower front part – 2 pieces
  • Side upper front part – 2 pieces
  • Center upper front part – 2 pieces
  • Upper facing part — 2 pieces
  • Lower facing part — 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
• From lining fabric:
  • Center upper back part – 2 pieces
  • Side upper back part – 2 pieces
  • Lining for lower back part — 1 piece
  • Lining for lower front part — 2 pieces
  • Lining for upper front part – 2 pieces
  • Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces

  Back lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric pieces, subtracting the width of the neckline facing.

• From fusible interfacing:
  • Upper facing part — 2 pieces
  • Lower facing part — 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH! TRY TO OBSERVE THE GRAIN LINE DIRECTION.

1. Fuse interfacing to the corresponding pieces and to the seam allowances of the lower edges of the garment and sleeves. Also, apply fusible stay tape along the armhole edges.
2. Stitch the shoulder darts on the center upper back parts, press the dart allowances towards the center. Stitch the back princess seams, press allowances towards the center. Stitch the center back seam, press allowances open.
3. Stitch the front princess seams, press allowances towards the center.
4. Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the upper jacket part, press allowances open. Stitch the side seams of the lower jacket part, press allowances open.
5. Stitch the side seams of the lower lining part, press allowances open. Attach the lower facing parts to the lining, press allowances towards the facing.
6. Place the lower garment part with the lining, and stitch around the front edges and the lower edge. Clip seam allowances at corners, turn the piece right side out, smooth out, and press. Form and secure the inverted pleats.
7. Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve, press allowances open. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front sleeve seam.
8. Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching notches, easing the sleeve cap at the top. Attach shoulder pads.
9. Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and the upper facing parts. Place the facing on the right side of the front piece, right side down, pin, and stitch all around the front edges and neckline. Clip seam allowances at curves, trim at corners. Turn the piece right side out, smooth out, and press.
10. Stitch the upper lining pieces similarly to the main fabric pieces, leaving an opening in the left elbow seam of the sleeve. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the facings and the back neckline facing.
11. Turn the facings with the lining to the wrong side and stitch to the jacket, placing the lower part between the main fabric and the lining. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Attach the lining to the sleeve hem. Stitch the technical opening closed.
12. Sew hook and eye to the edge of the front opening.