Bridal Dress with Diagonal Bands and a Pleated Insert

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: THIN LACE FABRIC; HEAVY SATIN (ATLAS); THIN TULLE (preferably two shades, e.g., milky and creamy white); STIFF TULLE; LACE TRIM, 4-5 cm wide. Also needed: ZIPPER, metal or plastic BONING, 2 decorative chiffon flowers. For finishing: LACE TRIM 4-5 cm wide is used as a trim, which is stitched under diagonal SATIN BIAS BINDINGS.

CUTTER'S MUST

If the patterns have a double contour, they include SEAM ALLOWANCES. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: Seam allowance for the left side seam (FOR ZIPPER INSERTION) of the garment - 2 cm. Other seams - 1 cm. ATTENTION! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width should be at least 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need.

• From SATIN (ATLAS):
  • BACK SKIRT – 2 pieces
  • All BODICE pieces
  • All BIAS BINDINGS
• From FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
  • All BODICE pieces
  • All BIAS BINDINGS
• From thin TULLE:
  • PLEATED SKIRT INSERT – 1 piece
  • FRONT SKIRT – 1 piece
  • BACK SKIRT – 2 pieces
• From thin LACE FABRIC:
  • All BODICE pieces
  • FRONT SKIRT - 1 piece
  • BACK SKIRT – 2 pieces
• From stiff TULLE:
  • UNDERSKIRT – 1 piece on fold
• From LINING
  • SKIRT LINING

Sewing Instructions

When stitching pieces, pay attention to the NOTCHES - they must match! Try to observe the GRAIN LINE direction.

1. All FRONT BODICE pieces consist of 1 layer of FUSED SATIN (for less transparency and density) and 1 layer of LACE FABRIC. For the BODICE LINING, it is also recommended to use fused SATIN.
2. Metal or plastic BONING, 2 cm shorter than the seam length (for ease of processing), should be inserted into all BODICE seams.
3. All BODICE seams, after stitching, are additionally covered with BIAS BINDINGS stitched diagonally, and LACE TRIM.
4. The skirt consists of 5 separate layers. The top layer of the FRONT SKIRT made of pleated TULLE is stitched to the top layer of the BACK SKIRT made of thin LACE. LACE DECORATIVE TRIM is stitched along the seam lines with a zigzag stitch. LACE TRIM is also stitched along the bottom of the skirt – thus finishing the bottom edge.
5. Second skirt layer: the central part of the FRONT SKIRT made of thin LACE is sewn to the BACK SKIRT made of ATLAS.
6. Third skirt layer: the central part of the FRONT SKIRT made of thin TULLE is sewn to the BACK SKIRT made of thin TULLE.
7. Fourth skirt layer: UNDERSKIRT made of stiff TULLE.
8. Fifth layer: SKIRT LINING.
9. ZIPPER in the side seam of the BODICE.
10. Attach LACE TRIM to the finished BODICE, along the neckline, with hand stitches.
11. Cover the seam line connecting the BODICE to the skirt with a BIAS BINDING, folded in half and pressed as shown on the BIAS BINDING pattern piece. The BIAS BINDING is attached with hand stitches on a mannequin.
12. Attach 2 decorative chiffon flowers with pleated inserts to the left side of the skirt.