Men’s Double-Breasted Overcoat with Big Patch Pockets with Flaps, Sleeve Cuffs, Back Belt & Center Back Vent
Introducing a sewing pattern for a tailored double-breasted coat with patch pockets and back belt tab – Structured Warmth with Timeless Appeal.
When To Wear
This coat delivers classic elegance and practical warmth, making it perfect for:
- City Commutes & Business Wear: a sharp outer layer for office looks and professional settings.
- Evening Outings: Layers beautifully over dresses, trousers, or knitwear for a refined silhouette.
- Cold-Weather Days: Designed for wool coating fabrics to keep you stylish and warm.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight double-breasted coat with a relaxed body
Collar & Lapels: Structured notched collar
Sleeves: Two-piece tailored sleeves with separate turn-up cuffs.
Details: Wide patch pockets with flaps and decorative back belt tab.
Back: Center-back seam with vent for a clean, balanced finish.
Lining: Full lining for comfort and durability.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Requires precision tailoring for the collar, sleeve cuffs, patch pockets, and back belt.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose warm, stable coating fabrics with or without nap to achieve a structured drape:
- Wool or wool-blend coatings
- Heavy melton or cashmere wool
- Brushed or napped coatings for added texture
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- Lining fabric
- Buttons – 9 pieces (approx. 25 mm)
- Shoulder pads
- Thin synthetic padding for sleeve heads
Cutter’s Must
From Main Fabric:
- Back - 2 pieces
- Front - 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve - 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve - 2 pieces
- Sleeve Turn Up - 2 pieces
- Upper Collar - 1 piece
- Stand Collar for Upper Collar - 1 piece
- Pocket Flap - 2 pieces
- Back Belt (marked on pattern as “Strap”) - 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing - 2 pieces
- Pocket - 2 pieces
- Lower Collar - 1 piece
From Lining:
For drafting the lining pattern pieces, use the following modifications:
- Back lining: use Back pattern, add a 2 cm ease pleat at center back, exclude vent extension, cut 2.
- Front lining: use Front pattern excluding Center Front Facing area, cut 2.
- Pocket: use pocket pattern shortening it by 4 cm
- Sleeves lining, cuffs lining, back belt lining and pocket flap lining: use main pattern pieces without any modification.
- Shorten the lining length by 2 cm at the hem.
From Fusible Interfacing:
- Front Fusible Interfacing – cut 2.
- Center Front Facing – cut 2.
- Upper Collar – cut 1.
- Stand Collar – cut 1.
- Lower Collar – cut 1.
- Pocket Flaps – cut 2.
- Back Belt – cut 2.
- Patch pocket opening edge (top fold) and pocket hem allowance – cut 1.
- Hem allowances of fronts, back, and sleeves
Important Information
Before cutting your fabric:
- Print and lay out pattern pieces to determine yardage.
- Check mirrored pieces, notches, and grainlines.
- For patterned fabrics, align carefully for symmetry.
Assembly Instructions
Preparation
- From the wrong side, apply fusible interfacing to:
- Fronts
- Center Front Facings
- Upper Collar
- Stand Collar
- Lower Collar
- Pocket flaps
- Back belt
- Patch pocket opening edge (top fold) and pocket hem allowance
- Hem allowances of fronts, back, and sleeves
(Press firmly with a hot iron using a press cloth.)
Patch Pockets & Flaps
- The pocket lining is 4 cm shorter than the main pocket piece to form the self-facing.
- With right sides together, stitch pocket lining to the upper edge of the pocket piece.
- Turn lining to the wrong side so that 4 cm of main fabric folds to the inside as a built-in pocket facing. Press.
- Fold pocket and lining right sides together again. Stitch around the remaining perimeter, leaving a 2–3 cm opening for turning.
- Clip corners, turn pocket right side out through the gap. Press edges flat. Close the opening with hand slipstitch.
- Topstitch 1.5 cm from the top fold to secure the facing line.
- Position pocket on front panel according to markings. Baste, then topstitch 1 cm around the sides and lower edge to secure.
Pocket Flaps
- Place each flap and its lining right sides together.
- Stitch around the perimeter, leaving a 2 cm opening along the top (attachment) edge for turning.
- Trim corners, turn right side out through the opening, and press edges sharply.
- Close the opening with a hand slipstitch.
- Topstitch 1 cm from the edge around the flap — do not topstitch along the upper (attachment) edge.
- Position the flap on the Front above the pocket opening, flap pointing upward, aligning with the placement markings.
- Stitch only the upper edge of the flap to the Front (this seam will be concealed once the flap is folded down).
- Fold the flap downward to cover the pocket opening and press neatly.
Optionally, topstitch 1 cm along the fold line to secure the flap position and reinforce the seam.
Back, Vent & Belt
Back Assembly:
- Sew center back seam to the vent marking.
- Topstitch 1 cm
Back Vent:
- Press left vent facing to right side along hem foldline; stitch along hem fold. Turn right side out and press.
- Press right back hem allowance to right side along vent edge; stitch, turn out, press.
- Overlap vent to left side and secure at top with a diagonal reinforcement stitch.
Back Belt (Half Belt):
- Place belt and belt lining right sides together. Stitch around, leaving a small opening.
- Turn, press, and topstitch 1 cm.
- Position belt on back panel as marked and baste in place. Final stitching is done after side seams.
Main Assembly
- Sew side seams; press allowances open.
- Sew shoulder seams; press allowances open.
- Attach back belt permanently across side seams.
Collar & Facings
Lower Collar:
- Attach the lower collar to the coat neckline, right sides together.
- Clip curves and press allowances downward.
Upper Collar + Stand Collar:
- Sew Stand Collar to Upper Collar, right sides together; press seam open.
- Attach this Upper Collar + Stand Collar to the front facings; press seam allowances open.
Joining to Garment:
- Place center front facing/upper collar unit right sides together with the coat.
- Stitch along front edges and collar.
- Trim corners, turn right side out, press.
- Topstitch 1 cm along front edges and collar.
If needed, slipstitch the inner neckline edge of the upper collar stand to conceal the seam.
Sleeves & Sleeve Turn Ups
1. Sleeve Assembly
- Press-shape (steam) the upper sleeve along marked areas where easing is required.
- Stitch upper sleeve to lower sleeve along the elbow/back seam. Press seam allowances open.
- Stitch front sleeve seam. Press allowances open.
2. Construct Sleeve Turn Ups
- Stitch each turn up into a ring (up to the marked slit). Press seam allowances open.
- With right sides together, stitch turn up to its lining along outer long edge and short sides. Leave bottom edge open.
- Trim corners, turn right side out, and press.
- Topstitch 1 cm from the edge (as shown in the technical drawing).
3. Attach Turn Ups to Sleeves
- Place the finished Turn Up with its lining side facing the right side of the sleeve hem.
- Stitch Turn Up to the sleeve along the hem edge.
- Turn the Turn Ups down so the seam allowance is hidden inside.
- From the right side, stitch the lower edge of Turn Up to the sleeve exactly in the seamline (a “stitch-in-the-ditch” or edge-stitch).
4. Secure the Turn Ups
